Vanished Arizona: Recollections of the Army Life by a New England WomanSummerhayes, Martha
History
Vanished Arizona: Recollections of the Army Life by a New England Woman
Summerhayes, Martha
Arizona -- Biography; Arizona -- Description and travel; Summerhayes, Martha, 1844-1926; United States. Army -- Military life
Now if you could hear the soft, exquisite, affectionate drawl with which
the Mexican woman says chile verde you could perhaps come to realize
what an important part the delicious green pepper plays in the cookery
of these countries. They do not use it in its raw state, but generally
roast it whole, stripping off the thin skin and throwing away the seeds,
leaving only the pulp, which acquires a fine flavor by having been
roasted or toasted over the hot coals.
The women were scrupulously clean and modest, and always wore, when in
their casa, a low-necked and short-sleeved white linen camisa, fitting
neatly, with bands around neck and arms. Over this they wore a calico
skirt; always white stockings and black slippers. When they ventured
out, the younger women put on muslin gowns, and carried parasols. The
older women wore a linen towel thrown over their heads, or, in cool
weather, the black riboso. I often cried: "Oh! if I could only dress as
the Mexicans do! Their necks and arms do look so cool and clean."
I have always been sorry I did not adopt their fashion of house apparel.
Instead of that, I yielded to the prejudices of my conservative partner,
and sweltered during the day in high-necked and long-sleeved white
dresses, kept up the table in American fashion, ate American food in
so far as we could get it, and all at the expense of strength; for our
soldier cooks, who were loaned us by Captain Ernest from his company at
Fort Yuma, were constantly being changed, and I was often left with the
Indian and the indolent Patrocina. At those times, how I wished I had
no silver, no table linen, no china, and could revert to the primitive
customs of my neighbors!
There was no market, but occasionally a Mexican killed a steer, and we
bought enough for one meal; but having no ice, and no place away from
the terrific heat, the meat was hung out under the ramada with a piece
of netting over it, until the first heat had passed out of it, and then
it was cooked.
The Mexican, after selling what meat he could, cut the rest into thin
strips and hung it up on ropes to dry in the sun. It dried hard and
brittle, in its natural state, so pure is the air on that wonderful
river bank. They called this carni seca, and the Americans called it
"jerked beef."
Patrocina often prepared me a dish of this, when I was unable to taste
the fresh meat. She would pound it fine with a heavy pestle, and then
put it to simmer, seasoning it with the green or red pepper. It was most
savory. There was no butter at all during the hot months, but our hens
laid a few eggs, and the Quartermaster was allowed to keep a small lot
of commissary stores, from which we drew our supplies of flour, ham, and
canned things. We were often without milk for weeks at a time, for the
cows crossed the river to graze, and sometimes could not get back until
the river fell again, and they could pick their way back across the
shifting sand bars.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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