Vanished Halls and Cathedrals of FranceEdwards, George Wharton
History
Vanished Halls and Cathedrals of France
Edwards, George Wharton
Cathedrals -- France; Cities and towns -- France; France -- Description and travel
The town, which was rather attractive and picturesque, stood in a sort
of plain, on the river Meuse, which divides here into several streams.
It was surrounded by fortifications, considered impregnable, which were
planted with large trees, and there was a very satisfying Mediaeval
gateway flanked by two great towers, while an attractive street called
the "Promenade de la Digne" followed the banks of the river. The sights
of the town, however, were very soon exhausted. If one followed the
Avenue de la Gare, one came to the Porte St. Paul, and just beyond it
the Palais de Justice and a large new college building. Then there
was the Porte Chaussée, which was very old and had two fine crenelated
towers. There were several bridges crossing the river Meuse, and along
its banks a collection of ancient many colored houses, all so battered,
bewindowed, and balconied, as to be quite fascinating pictorially but
certainly very dirty and "smelly." Ranged along the water washed walls
of these quaint houses, were many barges and washing boats, painted in
charming tones of green and brown, and these, reflected in the water,
made delightful pictures for the painter and snap shots for tourists.
A very good regimental band played in the square once a week, and
this formed an excuse for a promenade of the townspeople, and a social
gathering at the small cafés, for the post prandial "bock."
There was a Hôtel de Ville of the seventeenth century, lacking however
in character, in the courtyard of which were displayed some bronze
cannon, given to Verdun by the government in recognition of its heroic
resistance in the Franco-Prussian war of 1870. Near the cathedral were
the remains of an ancient gate called the Porte Châtel. The Cathedral,
the towers of which were high above the town, though lacking spires, was
not unimpressive, but it had been so often rebuilt and changed, as to
have few vestiges of the structure begun in the twelfth century. The two
towers were square and topped by balustrades of little or no character.
The buttresses of the apse were, however, of architectural value, and
the apse had some curious and remarkable sculptures, while the triple
nave was of noble proportions and had some Gothic vaulting.
A curious bas relief representing the Assumption was shown in the
transept; but beyond these features the Cathedral had little or nothing
to offer, save a very beautiful fifteenth century cloister, which we
nearly missed seeing, connecting die Cathedral with the grand séminaire.
The great Citadel, renowned throughout Europe, upon which such high
hopes centered in the beginning of the present war, and which resisted
the efforts of the army of the Crown Prince, occupied the ancient site
of the Abbey of St. Vannes, of the tenth century. It was so rigidly
guarded that no one was permitted to enter it. From a roadway called
the Promenade de la Roche one might idle away the hours appraising the
picturesque valley of the Meuse.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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