Were I asked which of all the regions of Venezuela I thought the most
attractive and interesting to the general traveller, I should have little
hesitation in replying, “The Andes.” The three mountain States constitute
a territory where, along with an appreciable extent of development, there
is a complete absence of the commonplace both in the country and its
people. The deep valleys and gorges and snow-clad peaks, with towns and
cities perched on mountain-sides and gravel plateaux, might be paralleled
elsewhere in South America but not in this republic, and though the
inhabitants of the towns have often travelled in America and Europe on
modern steamers and trains, to reach their homes they have, like their
less aspiring countrymen, to jog on mule-back for many leagues over rough
mountain paths which lead them frequently along precipices and through
all but unfordable rivers, and are marked by crosses commemorating the
violent deaths of previous travellers. It is a region where, a few miles
from the towns, are great stretches of unknown uplands and forest-clad
slopes, unexplored territory side by side with the habitation of some of
the most industrious communities of the republic.
The Andes may be reached from the north via the Bolivar Railway and
from Maracaibo either by way of La Ceiba, whence the railway brings
the traveller into the foothills of Trujillo at the north end, or by
Encontrados, when he enters Táchira, the most southerly of the trio of
States. There is a fourth route along the disused railway from Santa
Barbara, on the Escalante, up the valley of the Chama and so into Mérida,
but this is best avoided by those who do not hanker after unnecessary
discomforts and the less pleasant type of adventure. Within the Andes
proper everything is carried on mules, and on the narrow paths one has
continually to pass or be passed by trains of laden beasts, bearing the
produce of the hills and valleys or the imported wares of Europe and
America.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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