There have, from time to time, been reports of mines in the Sierra,
but the best authenticated occurrence is that of gold and silver, near
Estanques, on the main road to the lowlands; these deposits have never
been worked, as far as I could ascertain. The chief assets of the
district are at present the fertile lands of the Chama and tributary
valleys. Down the former, on the way to Ejido, about seven miles from
the capital, the road passes all the way through coffee and cacao
plantations, with some open pasture-lands; beyond Ejido the valley
becomes more and more barren towards Lagunillas, famed for its mineral
lake, containing large quantities of _urao_ or trona. The view over this
little town to the snow-clad peaks above Mérida is very fine in the early
morning, but the place seems to have little commerce. I must not omit
mention of a pleasant incident which occurred near Lagunillas, showing
the hospitable temper of the Andinos. We asked at a wayside store (empty
of goods) if we might buy some of the oranges growing profusely in their
garden. “With great pleasure,” said the proprietor, and brought us chairs
that we might dismount and rest. Presently came plates of oranges cut
up into a salad, a very welcome dish in these hot valleys. “And the
charge?” we asked. “Nada, señores.” Nor would our kind hosts accept a
centimo. We knew they would not have eaten the fruit themselves, but the
spirit of hospitality was the same.
Two or three miles below Lagunillas is one of the worst bits of road
in the Andes, and yet it is on the main route to the south. First, a
descent down a steep zigzag brings one to a picturesque wooden bridge
over the torrent of the Chama, giving the name to the group of houses
near by of Puente Real. Not many years ago travellers and their baggage
were taken over the stream in a sort of breeches-buoy, while their mules
were dragged through the swift current below, and often only landed with
difficulty far down on the opposite bank; the bridge is at least an
advance on this primitive mode of transit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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