The “road” to Barquisimeto is merely a casual track over the sand and
gravel plains, but it serves its purpose, and one may make the journey
in a strange vehicle, rather like a stage-coach in shape when seen from
a distance, though without any outside seats, for the very good and
sufficient reason that the apparently solid sides and top are of oilcloth
and can be rolled up if desired. In leaving Tocuyo, _el Señor cochero_
tells us we must be ready to start at 4 a.m., reserving to himself the
right to turn up at two or five as may suit him best. This brings us
to Quíbor, a little town, whose chief trade is in the temperate fruits
(quinces, &c.) of the Sanare Hills, at about eight, and we leave again
after midday, arriving dusty and sore at Barquisimeto by 5.30.
There are reported _minas_ of metal and coal round about Tocuyo, and the
latter certainly exists, though, like the less authentic minerals, it has
never been worked.
If, in place of travelling to the capital of the State, we followed
down the river from which Tocuyo takes its name, we should shortly find
the cactus-covered hills replaced on the left bank by grass plains, the
llanos of Carora, in the middle of which the town of the same name was
founded in 1572. Like most of these more ancient towns of Venezuela, it
contains many substantial buildings, and it is the market centre for the
grazing lands surrounding it, where sheep as well as cattle are raised.
From more remote districts come goats on the one hand, coffee and cane
on the other, these last from the fertile valleys to the west. There are
said to be outcrops of coal near by, a by no means improbable occurrence.
A whim of ex-President Castro’s led to the expenditure of a considerable
sum on the surveying and construction of a cart-road over the Sierra
Empalada to San Timoteo, on the Lake of Maracaibo. It was manifestly
impossible that such a scheme could succeed, involving, as it did,
the use of a hundred miles of road over a range of hills instead of
some sixty miles across the level to the Bolivar Railway terminus at
Barquisimeto; at the present time much of the road has fallen into
disuse, the remainder forming a standing monument to misplaced energy.
In addition to the level road to Barquisimeto there is another which in
some fifty miles brings us to Siquisique, the head of possible steam
navigation on the Tocuyo River. Up to this point steamers were run for a
short time, but the undeveloped country on either bank was not brought
under cultivation as a result, and the produce of the rest failed to
make the venture pay. Once again, want of population and of incentives
to labour have proved the main drawbacks in a feasible project. The
hills both north and south of the lower river produce, and are capable
of producing more, wheat, coffee, and cocoa; downstream there are
virgin forests of valuable timber, and on the north bank indications of
petroleum over a wide area almost uninhabited and unexplored.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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