Curaçao is, of course, Dutch territory, but the relations of the island
with Venezuela are very close—too close, in fact, from the point of
view of the Government. The legitimate and registered trade between the
two is small, but an enormous amount of smuggling is carried on, while
Willemstad has more than once proved a convenient base for intending
revolutionaries.
The town is a strange mixture both in people and language, and in
character a strong contrast to those of the Venezuelan coast. If one
is up betimes on board, watching for the entrance to the harbour, one
wonders if it is not really a confused dream of Flushing and a desert
island, so much does the port resemble a homely Dutch town transported
bodily into the heat of the West Indies, and set down on a barren rock.
When the steamer has entered the harbour, and the pontoon bridge has
swung back behind her, one can hardly believe that the land of mañana and
_dolce far niente_ is only a few miles away across the sea.
Harbour police, in plain but good blue uniforms and helmets, in place
of dirty white ducks adorned with much gold braid, pronounce us, after
some conversation in very guttural Spanish, fit and proper persons to
enter her Majesty’s colony of Curaçao, and we go on shore to examine this
fragment of Holland.
The very cleanliness of the town seems the cause of the only discomfort
experienced as one lands, for the dry soil will not support avenues
of trees, and the glare from the white stone pavements and walls is
almost painful. The names over the shops are sometimes Dutch, sometimes
Portuguese and Spanish, often combinations of these, while the people who
fill the streets are largely negroes of a strong, healthy type, talking
a language which sounds like Dutch as far as accent is concerned, but on
fuller acquaintance develops a likeness to Spanish. Those who know it
say that all languages contribute to genuine Curaçao, and I am almost
certain that I heard a Russian word used by one dusky Dutch subject.
The notice on the end of the bridge tells us alternately to “_Langzaam
rijden_” and “_Kore poko poko_,” the latter being the genuine Curaçao “as
she is wrote,” practically Spanish spelt phonetically.
On the east side of the harbour are the Government buildings, Post
Office, &c., together with the large business houses and the Dutch
Reformed Church. As it was August when I visited the island, most of the
comfortable-looking mansions were empty, the owners being away on home
visits.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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