Cristobal Colón is the most easterly port of Venezuela, and its position
at the eastern end of the peninsula of Paria, opposite to the Delta
of the Orinoco, led Castro to suppose that a small expenditure of
public money would lead to a diversion of all the freight now passing
via Port-of-Spain to Ciudad Bolivar, from Trinidad to Venezuela—an
ill-founded hope, however, as events proved, for the roadstead is very
poor, open to a continual heavy swell coming in through the Bocas, which
could only be overcome by extensive harbour-works, the cost of which is
entirely unwarranted by the circumstances of the case. The wharves and
warehouses erected represent, therefore, a sacrifice of public zeal to a
private whim as reprehensible as the construction of the Carora and San
Timoteo road.
The trade with Southern Venezuela is normally carried on through
Port-of-Spain, goods being there transferred to the Orinoco steamer
_Delta_, which crosses the Gulf of Paria to the Caño Macareo, up which
lies the normal route to Ciudad Bolivar. Columbus named the Gulf of
Paria “Golfo Triste,” and when one has left the beautiful hills and
islands on the north side behind it certainly wears a very gloomy aspect,
particularly on a cloudy day.
Near the mouths of the Orinoco the water becomes muddy and musky, full
of floating masses of water-hyacinth or dead timber, while away on the
horizon one can see a dark band of mangroves marking the beginning of the
swampy Delta territory.
Pedernales is the only settlement on the coast of the Delta proper—a
gloomy, unhealthy-looking spot, though the islands on which the houses
are built are more solid than the surrounding swamps. For the new town
one lands at a stone causeway leading across the black mud to a single
row of houses, one of which has a flagstaff indicating it as the seat of
authority. Crabs crawl on the slime and mud all around, and the black
patches of natural asphalt along the main street and foreshore offer
no contrast to the dirty pools which necessitate a wary eye and foot
in walking. The ruins of the German asphalt and oil refinery a mile or
so away add to the desolate effect, and the greeting from outlaws from
Trinidad, broken-down whites, and villainous-looking negroes make one
even more ready to leave this fever-stricken spot, where the floors of
the houses are flooded by frequent downpours in the rainy season. The
inhabitants exist chiefly by cutting and exporting mangrove-stems for
dyeing and tanning purposes; the asphalt industry seems to be quiescent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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