The upper Orinoco basin includes some of the best known, as well as some
of the least explored districts in the whole territory. The old mission
station of Esmeralda (longitude 65° 40´ W., latitude 3° 11´ N.) marks the
limit of any attempt at civilisation on the upper Orinoco, and beyond
this point our knowledge of the country is very scant indeed. Below this
point the river and forests and savannahs near its bank are comparatively
well known, from the number of travellers and small rubber prospectors,
as far as San Fernando, and below this again little exploration has been
carried out away from the river, which, nevertheless, is the main line of
communication with Pericos, below the Atures Rapids, whence steamers run
down the lower Orinoco to Ciudad Bolivar, and so afford communication
with the outside world.
The Atures Rapids, the biggest on the Orinoco, form at present an
effectual barrier to through communication by steamer, between the upper
and lower river, a difficulty formerly obviated by the construction of
a now disused cart-road from Pericos to Salvajitos, above the rapids, a
distance of 14 kilometres. But though the rapids have thus barred the
advance of civilisation, their great beauty and the possibility that one
day they may afford the power for an electric railway along the line of
the old cart-road beyond compensate for any such disadvantage.
Humboldt thus describes the Maipures and Atures Rapids in his “Ansichten
der Natur.” They are, he says, “to be regarded as a countless number
of small cascades succeeding each other like steps. The _Raudal_ (as
the Spanish term this kind of cataract) is formed by an archipelago
of islands and rocks, which so contract the bed of the river that its
natural width of more than 8,500 feet is often reduced to a channel
scarcely navigable to the extent of 20 feet. At the present day the
eastern side is far less accessible and far more dangerous than the
western.
“... It was with surprise I found, by barometrical measurements, that the
entire fall of the Raudal (of Maipures) scarcely amounted to more than
30 or 32 feet.... I say with surprise, for I hence discovered that the
tremendous roar and wild dashing of the stream arose from the contraction
of its bed by numerous rocks and islands, and the counter-currents
produced by the form and position of the masses of rock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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