Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
Venetian children, as a rule, are very badly reared, and many of them
die at an early age. It is a belief and a consolation that the little
ones go straight to heaven, there to plead their parents' cause and to
arrange for their reception.
May is the best month in which to see the streets. The intoxication of
spring is in the air, and in the bright sunlight the colours burn and
glow. Although you cannot see them, you are constantly reminded that
there are gardens in Venice. Suddenly over the red brickwork of a high
wall you will see clumps of tamarisk, hanging mauve wisteria, or the
scarlet buds of a pomegranate, while the scent of syringa and banksia
roses fills the air, the birds sing in the enclosure, and the perfume
of honeysuckle trails over the wall of a garden of a foreign prince.
Few crowds are more cheerful or better ordered than a Venetian crowd.
There is a light-heartedness about these people that is very engaging;
they have a marvellous frankness of manner, a sublime indifference to
truth. The smallest Venetian child is a born flatterer, and will tell
you, not what he thinks, but what he imagines you wish to hear. The
people are the most engaging in the world, free from care or doubt as
to right or wrong. This carelessness is characteristic of the whole
Italian race. Venetians give the impression of being always determined
to enjoy life to the full. They are continually coming together, for
the purpose of pleasure, on one pretence or another, and the flashes
of wit in the street are sometimes very amusing. The Venetians have
always been, and still are, a great festa-loving people. When the
Republic fell, the brave ceremonies came to an end; but the original
passion is still kept alive. The festa in Venice are chiefly of
religious character. For example, once a year each parish church
honours the feast of its patron saint by processions to all shrines
within that particular parish. Very picturesque are the streams of
priests and people crossing the bridges and passing along the fondanta
of some small canal,--a brilliant ribbon of vermilion and gold winding
through the grey-toned city: porters of the church (in blouses of
white, red, and blue) bearing candles, pictures, and banners; bands
playing the gayest operatic tunes; priests and the parocco carrying
the Host under a canopy of cloth of gold; long files of the devout
holding candles; and boys with crackers and guns. At night there is
dancing in the largest campo of the parish. On Good Friday the streets
resemble a feast rather than a fast. The people are in their best and
gaudiest clothes; children are rushing and romping and turning
somersaults, whirling their rattles, fitting up shrines and then
appealing to the crowd for coppers,--human mites of six or seven
constructing "Santo Sepolcro," or Holy Graves, from old bottles,
sprigs of bay stuck in, and odd candle-ends. One may witness touches
of sentiment in a Venetian crowd; but the depths are seldom stirred.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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