Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
Burano has a population of some nine thousand. The people are chiefly
engaged in fishing and in towing. One sees boatfuls of them returning
from the sea; and lines of them towing heavy mud-filled barges on the
way to Pordenone, all the men stepping in time with one another and
bending to the rope with a will. There is something statuesque about
these toilers. With their long, cleanly-moulded limbs, they remind one
of ancient Egyptian bronzes. The sculptor would find plenty of scope
in Burano. The people, however, are of evil repute by heredity. They
are the scapegoats of the lagoon. If anything goes wrong, the blame is
always laid upon them. They work harder and receive less pay than the
inhabitants of any other island. In the old days terrible quarrels
used to arise among the women, either in the market-place or when they
sat in their doorways making that exquisite lace for which the town
is famous. To the present day lace is made at Burano, and even now the
women quarrel over their work. If one did not know the language, one
would not imagine that they were quarrelling--the dialect is so soft
and sweet, the words dying away in a kind of sigh.
Mazzorbo is connected with Burano by a long wooden bridge. There are
very few houses here, and very few inhabitants. The island is given up
to flower gardens and the cultivation of fruit. Every day boats laden
with fruit, to be sold at the Rialto, are sent to Venice. Most of the
inhabitants of Mazzorbo are extraordinarily beautiful and sweet of
nature. These characteristics are very often found among those whose
business is chiefly connected with mother earth. Gardeners of all
nationalities are generally gentle and charming persons.
San Lazzaro is where the Armenian monks spend their quiet lives, happy
in the study and culture of their gardens. This convent of theirs is a
gem of colour set on the lagoon, painted a deep crimson and looking
like some gorgeous tropical flower. There is a terraced walk in the
garden, and the cloister is rich in flowers and planted with cypress
and oleander trees. It is a place in which to bask in the sun,
and watch the crabs fighting with one another on the sloping wall. One
can see the sun setting behind the Euganian hills, and watch the first
stars appear and the piazza lights shine out.
[Illustration: IN A SIDE STREET, CHIOGGIA]
Malamocco is not often visited by strangers; yet there is much that is
beautiful in the place, and a certain old-world air that fascinates
one. It is a good deal older than Venice; and its people, friendly and
clean persons, are always careful to explain to you that they are not
Venetians. The famous white asparagus, for which the evil-smelling mud
makes excellent soil, grows plentifully in Malamocco.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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