Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
Every gondolier belongs to a traghetto (ferry-boat station), from
which gondolas cross over to Venice from various points on the
Giudecca. These traghette have been established for centuries--no one
knows exactly how long; but certainly they were in existence in the
fourteenth century. To a gondolier a traghetto is, as it were, a club.
There are sixteen traghette. Each is governed by its own laws and
constitutions, which are still strictly kept; each has its own
history, archives, and parchment documents. By this society are
regulated the gondolier's wages, the limits of his obedience, his
holidays, everything appertaining to his welfare. There is at each
traghetto a little house in which the gondoliers can sit and gossip
and mend their boats.
One sees some of the finest types there. Years ago they used to sing
there on moonlight nights, in their beautiful broken Venetian patois,
verses from Tasso. It is long since they have done this as a habit;
but they will do it sometimes if you pay them sufficiently well. One
often hears them singing on the lagoon to the accompaniment of an
Englishman's golden coins. You can almost imagine on such occasions
that you are living away back in the Middle Ages--except that now the
Venetians drink a good deal, as they certainly never did then, and
sing in thick, guttural voices, somewhat hoarse, but on the whole
beautiful, as the musical Venetian dialect must always be. The songs
that they sing are all about lovely maidens and romantic excursions on
the water. The singing is very fine from a distance, the melody of a
human voice floating out on the calm and silence of the night. The
gondoliers are proud of their talent, and value it highly.
Nearly every gondolier belongs to a bank. He is a capable financier.
In company with twenty-nine other men, he deposits 10 lire, and
pledges to pay a weekly sum of 1 lira throughout the year. On his
failing to pay up once a week, 10 per cent. on each lira is charged.
Gondoliers are supposed to borrow a certain amount, for which 10 per
cent. is charged, every year. The accounts of the bank are settled in
September, and then a new venture is started.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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