Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
The gondolier in Venice is an important person to the stranger. Half
one's comfort depends on his worthiness or unworthiness. He is like
the girl of childhood's fame "who, if she was good, was very very
good, but, if she was bad, was horrid." If you are the employer
of an ideal gondolier you will find him thorough, ready-handed, and
versatile. In passing rapidly through Venice one does not properly
appreciate his worth. You must own him for some months before you
discover that he will attach himself to you and identify himself with
your interests in an almost feudal manner. He will save you an
infinity of trouble, and repay your confidence with honesty. The
gondolier usually prefers to have a foreigner for a master. The
foreigner pays well, never grumbling at the full tariff of five lire a
day: also, as the foreigner does not know the language or the place,
the gondolier becomes of some importance in the eyes of his
neighbours, who bid for his patronage. With a Venetian master he would
be paid from three to five lire a day; the work would be harder, and
the hours later.
When the squerariola (gondola builders) have finished their work, the
vessel will probably have cost three hundred lire. Even then the craft
is not by any means complete. There are the steel ornaments and many
other details to be bought and bargained for,--things not procurable
at the squero. For the steel prow (ferro), which must have the edges
of its teeth in one straight line, and in these days of hurried
workmanship is not always to be found, one must seek in all the
smithies in Venice. A good gondolier, however, will often possess a
ferro, an heirloom, made of hand-wrought iron, not cast in mould,
heavy and brittle, as are the new ferri, but light and pliant. A ferro
of the good and ancient make, if properly cared for and not allowed to
rust, will outlive many a gondola. For the sea-horses, the rude
carvings, the pictured Madonnas, the rugs and the covering for the
felce,--all, in fact, that helps to make the gondola the picturesque
craft it is,--one must go to the various shops in Venice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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