Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
We will go back again along the Rio della Sensa to the point where
we entered it, turning now to the right under the Ponte Rosso into
the Rio dei Trasti which soon Widens into a broad way of unbridged
water leading out to the lagoon and dividing the island of the Madonna
dell’ Orto from that of Sant’ Alvise. The rio into which we have
now come is the third long parallel waterway we have struck in our
journey through this district. It stretches on either side of us,
spanned by wooden bridges, between the west lagoon and the Sacca della
Misericordia. We will follow it for a short distance to the left to
the little campo of Sant’ Alvise from which it takes its name. Here,
in the church hangs that series of strange little canvases that Ruskin
did not hesitate to attribute to Carpaccio. They are hung on a wall
near the entrance door without order or precaution, signed in great
sprawling childish characters Vetor Carpacio. Perhaps our pleasure at
penetrating the by-ways of the city to this remote little island makes
us at first uncritically appreciative of the quaint square canvases.
Ruskin thought them the works of Carpaccio at eight or nine years
of age, but he was confessedly writing from memory, and face to face
with the reality might have reconsidered his verdict. The paintings
seem too sophisticated for a young Carpaccio, too feeble for an older
one. The architectural details belong in many respects to a period
of the Renaissance later than that which Carpaccio knew, and though,
behind their technical incompetence and absurd anachronisms, we seem
to catch glimpses of the masterful imaginativeness of Carpaccio, we
shall probably feel Molmenti’s verdict against their authenticity to
be more substantial than Ruskin’s reminiscence which was framed in the
enthusiasm of his discovery of one of the greatest of Venetian artists.
One of the paintings, _The Meeting of Solomon and the Queen of Sheba_,
has an interest apart from its quaint fancy. We may conjecture that
the artist was drawing on a memory of some work from the east; for the
wooden bridge and the figures wavering at each end of it, the winding
river, the little round Renaissance building to symbolise Jerusalem,
and, above all, the swans in the stream below, and the tall blue peaks
in the background, remind us of nothing so much as the willow pattern
plate familiar to our childhood. We will leave on one side the scenes
from Christ’s Passion by Tiepolo, which by some incongruous chance
also are preserved in this humble aisleless church, merely remarking
that it is necessary to arrive here early; for the sacristan, whose
duties extend to both the churches on the two neighbouring islands,
hurries off at half-past nine for the office at the Madonna dell’ Orto,
and Sant’ Alvise is shut.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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