Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
was the opinion of those who were there that they were worth a hundred
thousand ducats. Their faces were superbly painted, and so also the
rest of them that was bare.” The account of this sumptuous interior is
peculiarly valuable when we realise the date to which it belongs, the
period of the first greatness of Venetian Art, a period which has been
sometimes regarded as one of almost naïve simplicity. Casola, with his
customary exactitude, dwells on the frugality of Venetian gentlemen in
the matter of food--a frugality that caused the guest to reflect that
the Venetians cared more to feed the eye than the palate. It was not
yet the period of the sumptuous living deplored by Calmo only half a
century later.
Casola was a more secularly minded pilgrim than the priest of Florence,
Ser Michele, who paid five visits to the bones of the Holy Innocents at
Murano, and only at the fifth visit was counted worthy, as he humbly
deemed, to see the relics: Providence, in the form of the sacristan,
having till then failed him. The more festive Casola--who paid
repeated visits to Rialto, “which seemed to be the source of all the
gardens in the world,” who spent one day in vain attempts to count the
multitudinous boats in and about the city, and who was so frivolous,
for all his long white beard, as to buy a false front on the piazza--in
the midst of his expatiations on the Venetian maidens, pulls himself
suddenly together with a sense of incongruity between his diversions
and his goal, and shakes himself free from the allurements of Venice,
crying: “But I am a priest, in the way of the saints; I did not try
to look into their lives any further. To me it seemed better, as I
have said above, to go in search of the churches and monasteries and
to see the relics of which there are so many. And this seemed to me a
good work for a pilgrim who was awaiting the departure of the vessel
to go to the Holy Sepulchre, bringing the time to an end as well as he
could.” In the Accademia at Venice there is a curious little painting,
attributed to Carpaccio, of the assembly of the martyrs of Mount
Ararat in the Church of Sant’ Antonio di Castello, which stood once on
the site of the Public Gardens. It was a familiar sight for Venice,
the dedication of pilgrims that is represented here; and there is a
strange pathos in the slim, small figures as they move in two lines
half-wavering up the aisle, each wearing a crown of thorns, perhaps
in prophecy of coming martyrdom. They are not marching confidently to
victory like an army; their crosses are held at all angles, forming
errant patterns among themselves. Some are girt for their journey
in short vestments under their long robes. It is curiously unlike a
procession native to the city; there is a dreamlike, mystic quality
about it and a lack of body in its motion which is enhanced, perhaps,
by the extreme detail with which the interior of the church is
transcribed--the models of vessels in the rafters; the votive limbs
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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