Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
In considering some of the most noteworthy subjects in the city as
she now is, we may imagine a gondola tour on a day of the high tides
in December, when the water washes in long smooth waves almost up to
the feet of the Lion and St. Theodore, and gives to the Molo the
exhilarating effect of a sea-shore. The spring tide spurts and bubbles
through the gratings in the Piazza and Piazzetta, to unite in a lake
which covers the whole pavement till it deepens in the atrium of San
Marco and the heavy outer doors are closed. As the waters rise, the
dominion of light is extended; the chequered marbles of the Ducal
Palace take on a new brilliance, and the agate eyes of the Lion glow
and sparkle as he looks across the sun-paths to the sea. We will
imagine ourselves embarking at the Piazzetta and turning into Venice
from the Basin of San Marco, under the Ponte della Paglia and the
Bridge of Sighs. The entrance into the Rio del Palazzo is flanked on
one side by what was formerly the eastern tower of the Ducal Palace.
Relics of a Byzantine frieze are all that now remain of it; the rest
is lost in the grand eastern wall of the palace--a superb monument
of the first Renaissance. This wall would provide material for many
hours of study in the rich variety of its sculptures. Not a capital or
column is left unadorned, and each is particularised with an apparently
inexhaustible variety of design. The two massive, projecting balconies
of the Anti Sala dei Pregadi, overhanging the rio, which presented to
the sculptor some at least of the problems of ceiling decoration, are
richly carved beneath with deep circular roses. The remotest corners
are worked with the same conscientious detail as the more conspicuous,
and each with a view to its position above the rio. As our eyes grow
accustomed to the comparative darkness of the canal, we see that lions
look down on us from the arches of the topmost windows, and that some
of the upper columns are surrounded by a band of sculpture similar to
that on the pillars of the façade of the Scuola di San Rocco. Amid
the wealth of sculptured stone there is an impressive severity in the
discs of porphyry set at intervals along the wall; but perhaps its
greatest beauty is the ducal shield bearing the Barbarigo arms. This
shield, placed over a low water-door, is upheld by two winged pages
with lighted torches in their hands, who are themselves like songs of
light in their graceful and spirited beauty. Massiveness and grace are
magnificently combined in this east wall of the Ducal Palace; it is at
once solemn and brilliant; and as we look back to its angle with the
Riva, the rose and snowy marbles gleam as if they were transparent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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