Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
We may well feel the inadequacy of words as We attempt to revive this
wonderful painting. Bellini faithfully recorded Venice, but we cannot
so faithfully record Bellini. We can only hope to call attention to the
detail of what is undoubtedly one of the most valuable portraits of the
Venice of the first Renaissance by one of the greatest of her citizens.
When we have paused long enough on the site of the picture and go down
the Rio San Giovanni Laterano, immediately in front of the Capello
Palace, the high water again denies us passage; but it gives more than
it withholds in compelling us to return to our former junction with
the Rio Pestrin and to pass out among the coal barges making the wider
circuit of the lagoon. It is a wonderful moment when we come suddenly
from the narrow water into the wide expanse of the lagoon; and on this
December morning a marvellous vision awaits us. The long brown line of
Sant’ Erasmo lies like a dark cloud on the water; Burano, San Francesco
and Torcello are isolated in a strange translucency of mist; whilst
from the low tones of the water one red sail rises like a column of
flame. Above Murano the smoke coils languidly; the cypresses over
the cemetery wall stand out in startling blackness. A flock of gulls
incessantly flickers and glitters on the surface of lucent aquamarine
that stretches away to the shore where the mountains lie like purple
shadows crowned with a radiancy of snow. The sunlight of the lagoon
in this wintry clearness seems other than that which falls on the
waterways of the city; this outer robe of Venice to-day is of so
immaterial a texture that we feel the material city slipping from our
grasp. We turn back into it, but by a way that can feed the visionary
sense, by the Rio dei Mendicanti. It might seem, indeed, that all
vision would die in the dreary, plastered uniformity of the building
that stretches along the fondamenta on our left. This building was
formerly the Scuola di San Marco; but the superb façade erected by the
Confraternity on the Campo di SS. Giovanni e Paolo has little in common
with these white-washed walls and dreary sunless corridors. For this
most famous School is now the Hospital of the Mendicanti, and it is as
a visitor to the wards that we are admitted. Yet amidst these chill
cloisters and corridors is kept one of the most luminous and visionary
treasures of Venice--Tintoretto’s _Procession of St. Ursula and The
Virgins_. It is the more precious as being, with _Bacchus and Ariadne_
and _The Paradise_, almost the only work of Tintoretto that we can
make sure of fully seeing. There is abundant light in the cold, grey
church to illumine a picture which is in itself a song of light in the
daybreak.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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