Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel
We pass out again through the long corridors under the great sculptured
portal. On our left is the church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, a storehouse
of Renaissance art, and before us the friend of whom we never grow
weary--Colleoni astride of his war-horse in the centre of the square.
This paid servant, this adopted son of Venice, is not on the Piazza
where it was his wish to be; but he stands even more fitly here upon
this small campo beside the canal. Anywhere he would be monarch; but
we are admitted here into his private presence-chamber, while the
great stirring Piazza would seem but the crowded outer court. If,
before leaving the campo, we make a short journey on foot along the
Salizzada which passes on the south of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, we may
find a treasure buried in dirt and neglect. None would guess its
presence; but those who care for unfrequented paths may venture under
the unattractive sotto-portico which leads to the outer staircase of
a once beautiful Renaissance palace. It is given over to the poor,
but a sculptured doorway still surmounts the stair; its chief beauty
however is a series of delicately sculptured arches in the brickwork
below, and a fine well-head half imprisoned by the chimney of a
neighbouring bakery. The wall of the bakery is so near the staircase
of the palace that we can get no complete conception of the arches,
and the dirt and ill odours of this neglected corner are likely to
daunt all but the most enthusiastic seekers after treasure. Yet
these fragments, in elegance and beauty of design, may rank with the
worthiest remains of the Venetian Renaissance.
[Illustration: PALAZZO SANUDO.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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