But there are two Venices: the Venice of the canals and the Venice of the streets. The traveller will do well therefore to go on foot to some of the sights he would see, for by no other means can he do justice to the varied beauty of the streets, the quaint fragmentary remains of ancient architecture, the brilliant patches of colour, the little shrines, and all the countless details that go to make the by-ways of the city so full of surprise and pleasure to the pedestrian. The difficulty of finding one’s way from point to point has been greatly exaggerated. Anyone with a map and a normal sense of direction can with a little patience reach his destination. The churches are usually situated on or near a _campo_; a stream of people will generally be found passing along the streets and over the bridges between the _campi_, and a well-worn track marks the more frequented ways. If he should find himself blocked by a canal or a blind alley, a short deviation to the right or left will generally lead to one of the 380 bridges by which, to use Evelyn’s picturesque phrase, the city is tacked together. Even if hopelessly lost, a _soldino_ given to a boy will soon bring him to where he would go. The waterways, 150 in all, are divided into _canali_ and _rii_. The _canale_ is the broader, the _rio_ the narrower stream. The _rii_ are by far the greater in number. But the pedestrian is more concerned with street nomenclature. A _fondamenta_ is a way alongside a _canale_ or _rio_; a _calle_ is a street with houses on either side; _ruga_ or _rughetta_ (French _rue_, _ruelle_) was first applied to streets with a few new houses here and there; the appellation was retained in later times when the houses or shops became continuous; a _salizzada_ is one of the earliest of the paved streets, generally near a church; a _rio terra_, a _rio_ filled up and paved; a _piscina_, a fish-pond treated in the same way; a _ponte_, a bridge; a _campo_, a paved, open place, formerly a field; a _campiello_, a smaller _campo_; a _corte_, a court. Avoid a _vico cieco_, or a _viccolo cieco_, which have no thoroughfare. The city is divided into six _sestieri_ or wards, subdivided into _parocchie_ or parishes. The houses are numbered by _sestieri_, the numbers reaching to thousands. The Merceria, a crowded thoroughfare, leads from under the Clock Tower in St Mark’s Square, after many kinks and turns, to the Rialto bridge over the Grand Canal, which is spanned by two other bridges about equidistant from the Rialto bridge. E. and W. of the Rialto, in addition to these bridges, numerous ferries (_traghetti_) make either bank of the Grand Canal easy of access, and small steamers (_vaporetti_) call at frequent piers the whole length of the chief waterway. Travelling by gondola, therefore, is to be regarded as a luxury rather than a necessity. The gondola bears the same relation to Venetian life as does the cab or carriage to the dweller in an ordinary town.