Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel; Venice (Italy) -- History
six prophets bearing scrolls. The technique of the gold _cloisonné_
enamels is admirable. They are glorious in colour, partly translucent,
and allow the backing of fine gold to shine through.
Behind the high altar is the altar of the Holy Cross, adorned with six
columns of precious marble. The two spiral, semi-transparent ones were
reputed to come from Solomon’s Temple. The chapel to the S. of the high
altar is dedicated to St Clement. Beneath the cornice whence springs
the vaulting of the apse is a stern minatory inscription in Latin that
met the eye of the Doge, as he entered from the Ducal Palace through an
ante-room opening on this chapel. It is now but dimly seen, and runs
thus: _Love justice, give all men their rights: let the poor and the
widow, the ward and the orphan, O Doge, hope for a guardian in thee. Be
compassionate to all: let not fear nor hate nor love nor gold betray
thee. Thou shalt perish as a flower: dust shalt thou become, and, as thy
deeds have been, so after death thy reward shall be._
In the S. transept, answering to the Lady Chapel, is the chapel of the
Holy Blood, formerly dedicated to St Leonard.
The old and new crypts open to the public on St Mark’s Day, and at other
times on payment of 50 centesimi, are of great interest. In the centre
of the new crypt, that of Contarini’s church, is the empty tomb,
reaching to the roof, where lay St Mark’s body from 1094 until 1811,
when it was removed to the high altar where it now remains. Three steps,
topped by a slab of stone worn by pilgrims’ feet, lead to a
semi-circular cell with a small window once filled with pierced
stone-work. The ancient capitals of the columns of this crypt are of
great beauty. The older crypt with its rude brick vaulting that formed
part of the ninth-century basilica of Giov. Participazio, was drained
and cleared of rubbish, as the inscription tells, in 1890.
The chief object of interest in the Treasury, entered at the W. angle of
the S. transept, is the so-called chair of St Mark, wrought from a block
of Cipollino marble, said to have been sent to Aquileia from Alexandria
by the Empress Helena and to have been carried thence with the other
relics to Grado at the time of the Lombard invasion. Some beautiful
book-covers from St Sofia; a number of Byzantine chalices made of
precious stones; two fine candelabri attributed to Cellini; a ring used
at the Wedding of the Adriatic, are among the exhibits. The Treasury
was looted at the same time as the Pala d’Oro by the French. The room
itself, outside the fabric of the church, is of interest inasmuch as it
originally formed part of the tower of the old Ducal Palace. The body of
St Mark is said to have lain there from 829 until 832, when the church
was ready to receive it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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