Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel; Venice (Italy) -- History
At the farther corner of the Campo S. Samuele
is the PAL. MALIPIERO, seventeenth-century. At the near corner of the
next rio is the CA’ DEL DUCA (di Milano), begun for Francesco Sforza
when he was the Venetian Captain-General. The construction was vetoed by
the Signory at a point easily discernible, when Sforza began to play
Carmagnola’s game and was outlawed. The late Gothic PAL. CAVALLI beyond
the iron bridge has been wholly restored by Baron Franchetti. At the
farther corner of the rio dell’ Orso is the fourteenth-century Gothic
PAL. BARBARO debased by additions. Beyond the traghetto S. Stefano and a
garden is the PAL. CORNER DELLA CA’ GRANDE now the Prefecture, a stately
Renaissance edifice by Sansovino (1532). Past the traghetto S. M. del
Giglio are three palaces all more or less restored which form the Grand
Hotel. The first, PAL. GRITTI, is fourteenth-century Gothic; the second,
PAL. FINI, is by Tremignano (1688); the third, PAL. FERRO,
fifteenth-century Gothic. The small PAL. CONTARINI-FASAN is the
so-called Desdemona House. The balcony with its rich tracery is unique
in Venice. Some distance farther on is the PAL. TIEPOLO, now the Hotel
Britannia. The Hotel d’ Italia is a new building. The fifteenth-century
PAL. GIUSTINIANI is now the Hotel de l’ Europe. The next house but one
is the old RIDOTTO, the famous Assembly Rooms and Gambling Saloon of the
later Republic, in its day the Monte Carlo of Europe. It is still used
for _bals-masqués_ at Carnival time. We pass the gardens of the Royal
Palace; the Zecca (mint), and the S. end of the Libreria Vecchia, both
by Sansovino, and reach the Piazzetta, whence we started. Fortunate are
they who have the opportunity of seeing the Grand Canal at the time of a
royal visit, or other great occasion when steamer traffic being stopped,
the waters regain the placidity we see in old engravings, and the lines
of palaces hung with tapestry are mirrored in the sea. The grand
_bissone_ (festal gondolas) are brought forth, decked with brilliant
colours, some of them manned by a score of gondoliers in gorgeous old
Venetian costume, and we then catch a glimpse of what Venice was in her
splendour.
The traveller will probably choose an afternoon for his survey of the
Grand Canal, and no better rounding-off of the day may be imagined than
to ferry across from the Molo to the island of S. Giorgio Maggiore, the
ancient Isle of the Cypresses, and, after visiting the church, to ascend
the campanile and enjoy the beautiful view from the summit. Northwards
is the line of the mainland, fringed with trees and dotted with
villages; in the foreground the broad curve of the city of a hundred
isles; around, as the eye sweeps the horizon, are the lagoons, studded
with islands and marked by the bold strokes of the lidi; farther to the
S. is the open Adriatic. As the sun sinks to its setting the vast
expanse will glow in a symphony of ravishing colour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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