Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel; Venice (Italy) -- History
was a favourite of Sir Joshua Reynolds who describes it at length in
“The Journey to Flanders and Holland.” Crossing the bridge opposite the
main portal and turning L. we reach the great Monastery now the Record
Office of Venice (Archivio Centrale). It contains the most famous
collection of state documents in the world. The custodian will admit the
traveller to the noble double cloisters. We return to the Porta dei
Frari and further to the W. find the Scuola and church of S. Rocco.
Towards the end of the thirteenth century a young noble of Montpellier
found himself the master of great possessions, and following the
injunctions of Christ sold all that he had and gave it to the poor. He
set forth as a pilgrim to Rome and on his way passed plague-stricken
cities where he devoted himself to the service of the hospitals and by
his tenderness, sympathy and fervent prayers wrought many wondrous
cures. At length on his return from Rome he was stricken himself at
Piacenza and a horrible ulcer broke out on his thigh. Wishing to spare
his fellow-sufferers the sound of his groans he dragged himself to a
ruined hut in a deserted place hard by, where angels tended his sores
and a dog brought him daily bread. When healed he went back to his
native city but arrived so changed by suffering that he was arrested as
a spy and cast into prison. One morning after he had languished there
for five years the jailer on entering his dungeon saw it flooded with a
bright light, the prisoner dead, and a writing which promised healing to
all stricken by plague who should call on his name. In 1485 some
Venetians disguised as pilgrims carried off the saint’s body to Venice;
the Church of S. Rocco was erected to contain it and a guild founded in
his name for the tending of the sick and the burial of the dead. The
church, entrusted to Bart. Buon of Bergamo, was built in the
fifteenth century. The Scuola was begun about the same time (1490) by
the same architect, carried on by the Lombardi and Scarpagnino (1524-37)
and completed about 1550. Here during eighteen years Tintoretto worked
on the stupendous series of paintings which decorate the interior. They
are fully described and vigorously appreciated and depreciated by Ruskin
in the Venetian Index. The Adoration of the Magi, in the lower hall,
facing the entrance, he esteems to be “the most finished picture in the
Scuola except the Crucifixion.”
[Illustration: SCUOLA DI S. ROCCA.]
From the first landing as we ascend the stairs may be seen to the L. an
early Annunciation by Titian, refreshing in its repose and simplicity;
R. is Tintoretto’s Visitation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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