Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel; Venice (Italy) -- History
The Ghetto Vecchio and the Ghetto Nuovo may be reached by crossing the
Ponte Tre Archi and following the E. bank of the Cannareggio to a
portico which gives access to the Jewry of Venice. The term Ghetto is
said to have originated from the fact that here were located the old and
new foundries for casting (_gettando_) the ordnance of the Republic. The
sites of the old and the new foundries (the Ghetto Vecchio and the
Ghetto Nuovo) were in 1516 assigned to the Jews for their quarter.
Little that is characteristic now remains. On the L. as we enter the
quarter is an inscription declaring the “firm intention of the
magistrates of the Republic to severely repress the sin of blasphemy
whether committed by Jews or converted Jews. They therefore have ordered
this proclamation to be carved in stone in the most frequented part of
the Ghetti, and threaten with the cord, stocks, whip, galleys or prisons
all who are guilty of blasphemy. Their Excellencies offer to receive
secret denunciations and to reward informers by a sum of a hundred
ducats to be taken from the property of the offender on conviction.”
We return to the fondamenta and pursue our way to the fine bridge on the
R. which spans the Cannareggio and leads to the railway station. We
cross the bridge and reach the church of S. Maria agli Scalzi (1648-89),
designed by Longhena. The façade by Sardi was restored by the Austrians
in 1853-62. The interior is condemned by Ruskin as a vulgar abuse of
marble in every way. The ceiling is frescoed by Tiepolo in his most
flamboyant style. This heavily decorated edifice (p. 195) was erected,
as its name implies, for Our Lady of the Shoeless Friars. Behind the
high altar is a doubtful Giov. Bellini. The last of the Doges, Ludovico
Manin, lies in this church.
SECTION XVII
_Titian’s House--S. Michele in Isola--Murano_
Few parts of Venice have suffered more from the disfigurement wrought by
national decadence, poverty and insensibility than that now bounded by
the _Fondamente nuove_. In the sixteenth century this was one of the
most charming quarters of the city. Here stood the smaller pleasure
palaces of the patricians, with delicious gardens sloping down to the
sea, whither they could retire after the business of the day to refresh
themselves and entertain their friends. The gardens gave on that
exquisite prospect where:--
“the hoar
And aëry Alps towards the north appeared
Thro’ mist an heaven-sustaining bulwark reared
Between the east and west; and half the sky
Was roofed with clouds of rich emblazonry.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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