Art -- Italy -- Venice; Venice (Italy) -- Description and travel; Venice (Italy) -- History
We continue along the Fondamenta, and cross the Ponte Vivarini to the
ancient basilica of SS. Mary and Donatus. Legend tells of the Emperor
Otho I. caught in a fearful storm, and vowing, if saved, to build a
church to the Virgin, who appeared to him in a vision and indicated this
very triangular space, bright with a mass of red lilies, as the chosen
spot. To the basilica of S. Maria here erected, Doge Dom. Michele gave
in 1125 the body of S. Donatus and the bones of the slain dragon, which
are still suspended over the high altar. The story of the saint, as
related by the worthy sacristan of the church with dramatic gestures, is
as follows:--A terrible dragon once devastated Cephalonia, devouring the
inhabitants and poisoning the waters of the river up which it swam. The
good bishop Donatus determined to rid the land of the monster, and,
accompanied by his clergy, went towards the river to confront it. On its
appearance the clergy fled, but the saint boldly advanced alone and
spat at the beast, which at once fell dead. Donatus then took a cup, and
drinking of the water of the river, found it pure and sweet, called back
his clergy and showed them the dead monster.
The exterior of the apse, with its masterly decoration of coloured brick
and marble so lovingly described by Ruskin in the “Stones of Venice,” is
one of the most interesting examples of twelfth century Lombard
architecture in North Italy.
We enter and note the rare and precious pavement of the church which is
finer even than that of St Mark’s. Much of it has been broken up and
reset, but enough has remained undisturbed to rejoice the eye of the
traveller. The quaint designs are wrought of opus Alexandrinum,
porphyry, _verde antico_ and mosaic. A favourite subject is that of two
cocks bearing between them a fox with feet bound--the triumph of
watchfulness over cunning. The date, September 1, 1140, may still be
read on the pavement in the middle of the nave near the main entrance.
The tall, solitary figure of the Virgin in the act of blessing in the
apse is a twelfth-century mosaic. An example of Sebastiani’s
work--Virgin and Child with the Baptist, St Donatus and the donor
(1484)--will be found in the L. aisle.
The local museum possesses a unique collection of Venetian glass of the
finest period by the Berovieri family and the Dalmatian Zorzi il
Ballerin, some of the ancient luminous red glass contrasted with a
modern imitation, and a Libro d’Oro with genealogies of members of this,
the closest of the guilds of Venice (p. 213). Descendants of the
Berovieri still work for Salviati.
SECTION XVIII
_Torcello--S. Francesco del Deserto_
The poor and almost desolate island of Torcello lies N.E. of Murano and
may be reached by steamer, or by gondola with two rowers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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