Venice : $b The queen of the AdriaticWaters, Clara Erskine Clement
History
Venice : $b The queen of the Adriatic
Waters, Clara Erskine Clement
Venice (Italy)
Thus runs the story of the old women; but there are other
explanations of the name of this old house, which even now bears
traces of its former beauty, though the whole edifice is going to
wrack and ruin. A second {173} story is quite as gruesome as the
first, since it says that here dead bodies were brought by medical
students, and autopsies made before they were buried in San Michele,
which is very near. This is the view adopted by J. A. Symonds, who
says:--
"Yonder square white house, standing out to sea, fronting Murano and
the Alps, they call the Casa degli Spiriti. No one cares to inhabit
it; for here, in old days, it was the wont of the Venetians to lay
their dead for a night's rest before their final journey to the
graveyard of S. Michele. So many generations of dead folk had made
that house their inn, that it is now no fitting house for living men."
But a pleasanter explanation is, that long ago an artistic and
literary society held its meetings here, and from the _beaux esprits_
who habitually gathered beneath its roof, it came to be called the
Casa degli Spiriti.
Perhaps the most amusing Venetian ghost-story is that of the parish
priest of San Marcuola, who declared his disbelief in ghosts in a
sermon, and exclaimed, "Where the dead are, there they stay!" This
made the ghosts of those who had been buried in San Marcuola very
indignant, and they revenged themselves by going at night, in a body,
to the chamber of this priest, whom they dragged out of bed, tossed
about, and soundly thrashed for the insult he had put on them.
Meantime, while this story-telling has gone on, it has grown quite
dark, and as we come into the canals, the calls, _Stalì_, _Premè_,
are very frequent. These cries of the gondoliers are curiously
startling, especially at night; but the celerity with which they are
obeyed, and the narrow escapes from accidents, prove their
usefulness. _Stalir_ means go to the right; _Premier_, go to the
left; and _Sciar_, or _Siar_, means that the boat is to be stopped by
turning the flat side of the oar against the current. Monckton
Milnes prettily explains this in his verses:--
{174}
"When along the light ripple the far serenade
Has accosted the ear of each passionate maid,
She may open the window that looks on the stream,--
She may smile on her pillow and blend it in dream;
Half in words, half in music, it pierces the gloom,
'I am coming--stalì--but you know not for whom!
Stalì--not for whom!'
"Now the tones become clearer,--you hear more and more
How the water divided returns on the oar,--
Does the prow of the gondola strike on the stair?
Do the voices and instruments pause and prepare?
Oh! they faint on the ear as the lamp on the view,
'I am passing--premè--but I stay not for you!
Premè--not for you!'
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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