Venice : $b The queen of the AdriaticWaters, Clara Erskine Clement
History
Venice : $b The queen of the Adriatic
Waters, Clara Erskine Clement
Venice (Italy)
Passing through the Piazzetta, we turn to the left on the Molo. This
side of the Ducal Palace is beautiful in spite of the disproportion
in the height of the lower story; this is caused by the rising of the
sea-level, which is said to average three inches in a century, and
consequently the pavement must be raised; if this is correct, the
columns {203} of the palace must be fifteen inches below the present
pavement. The entire _loggie_ on this side of the palace are the
work of the Bon family; the designs on the capitals of the columns
are very curious, illustrating mediæval allegories and legends which
symbolize justice and good government. The windows are fine, and the
balcony in the centre is richly ornamented; the bas-reliefs are
wrought with great delicacy and skill.
[Illustration: _Panorama from the Campanile of St. Mark._]
From the Ponte della Paglia, at the end of the Molo, we have the best
possible view of the Bridge of Sighs, which Howells calls a "pathetic
swindle," and not without reason. It was not built until the end of
the sixteenth century, since which there has been but one victim of
political imprisonment. But there it hangs, high in air, "a palace
and a prison on each hand." Looking up from the Paglia it is most
effective, although vulgar prisoners only have passed over it to
their death. No doomed Foscari or Carmagnola ever saw it; and
perhaps its greatest interest is from that much-worn line of Byron's,
"I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs."
Passing the Paglia, we are on the Riva degli Schiavoni, in front of
the Carceri, or public prison. As the apartments of the _Signori di
Notte_ (heads of police) were on this side, it was not made to look
like a prison. Below are rustic arches, above which Doric columns,
on pedestals, support a fine cornice with consoles in the frieze.
The upper rooms are now used for convicts and the windows are grated.
One can but wonder how it would seem to be there, shut off from the
world, and gaze out on the beautiful Church of San Giorgio Maggiore
and the lagoon beyond, with the ever-changing aspect of the divinely
colored waters; to watch the multitudes of steamers, gondolas, and
other boats passing and re-passing; to listen to the sound of steps
and voices on the Riva, and to all the different songs and cries from
the boats. It must be {204} maddening. Was it the effect of the
restless waves that Saint John watched from Patmos, in his exile,
that made him say, "And I saw a new heaven and a new earth; for the
first heaven and the first earth were passed away; _and there was no
more sea_"?
Passing another bridge, we turn into a curious vaulted passage at the
left which leads to the beautiful Church of San Zaccaria; it is three
centuries and a quarter old, and the third which has been erected on
this spot. Architects lavish praises on it; Fergusson says: "One of
the finest of the early façades of Italy is that of San Zaccaria at
Venice."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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