Venice : $b The queen of the AdriaticWaters, Clara Erskine Clement
History
Venice : $b The queen of the Adriatic
Waters, Clara Erskine Clement
Venice (Italy)
What a family they were, descended from Tribunes of the Rialto in the
time of Theodoric the Goth; and to what good purpose they swayed the
Ivory Sceptre during seventy-four years. It was Badoer II. who
erected the first chapel in the Ducal Palace for the body of Saint
Mark, which came to Venice during his reign. A daughter of Badoer
IV. was an abbess of San Zaccaria, and many of the sons of these
Doges entered the Church; but theirs was a proud, brave, just, and
patriotic race, better suited to governing the Republic than to the
offices of Holy Church. In their day the Doges were absolute
monarchs, and the Badoeri gave almost constant domestic tranquillity
to Venice, and won the hearts of the Venetians.
{209}
And now we are in the broadest street of Venice, the Via Garibaldi.
It leads to the Giardini Pubblici, which is a park rather than a
garden, and was made by Napoleon in 1807. The space was gained by
the destruction of four churches, as many monasteries, and a hundred
houses, none of which are now missed. It is a pleasant place to take
luncheon, with a lovely panorama before us, to which the boats and
their ever-fascinating sails give life and cheerfulness. Beyond the
canal of the Giudecca rises the dome of the Redentore; the square
tower of the Dogana and the cupolas of the Salute make a striking
effect against the cloudless sky; well round to the right we see the
top of the Campanile behind the Ducal Palace, and before us, the
island of San Giorgio Maggiore, with its picturesque church and fine
clock-tower, seems very near.
Undoubtedly, all this is best at sunset with the golden west for a
background; indeed, few points are so favorable for watching the
glorious death of day, especially if one lingers while the fires die
out and even the more delicate tints fade away. Then a mysterious
indistinctness steals over all the distant objects, but now so
clearly cut against the flaming sky. There was a reality and
emphasis about these towers and spires, the canals, and all the
moving objects that made them a part of a work-a-day, practical
world, but in the dusky twilight the outlines run together; we see
and do not see the true forms of the various parts of Santa Maria
della Salute, but a beautiful whole remains; even the nearer San
Giorgio becomes mysterious; the smaller features disappear, while the
whole is profoundly impressive and grand, seeming to clothe itself
with the night, as if retiring into its own world of peaceful and
solemn repose.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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