Venice : $b The queen of the AdriaticWaters, Clara Erskine Clement
History
Venice : $b The queen of the Adriatic
Waters, Clara Erskine Clement
Venice (Italy)
There is a world of interest in the bronzes, mosaics, and marbles of
Venice, many of which are in and about the Piazza of San Marco.
Perhaps something should first be said about this spot, already so
frequently mentioned, and in which the whole history of Venice seems
to centre; but when I think of writing it the words of the double of
the Rev. Frederic Ingham occur to me with great force: "There has
been so much said, and, on the whole, so well said, that I will not
occupy the time."
To quote some of these "well-said" things seems far the wisest
course. Mr. Howells says:--
"The Place of St. Mark is the heart of Venice, and from this beats
new life in every direction, through an intricate system of streets
and canals, that bring it back again to the same centre.... Of all
the open spaces in the city, that before the Church of St. Mark alone
bears the name of Piazza, and the rest are called merely _campi_, or
fields. But if the company of the noblest architecture can give
honor, the Piazza S. Marco merits its distinction, not in Venice
only, but in the whole world. I never, during three years, passed
through it in my daily walks, without feeling as freshly as at first
the greatness of its beauty.
"The church, which the mighty bell-tower and the lofty height of the
palace lines make to look low, is in no wise humbled by the contrast,
but is like a queen enthroned amid upright reverence. The religious
sentiment is deeply appealed to, I think, in the interior of St.
Mark's; but if its interior is heaven's, its exterior, like a good
man's daily life, is earth's; and it is this {260} winning loveliness
of earth that first attracts you to it, and when you emerge from its
portals, you emerge upon spaces of such sunny length and breadth, set
round with such exquisite architecture, that it makes you glad to be
living in this world.
"Whatever could please, the Venetian seems to have brought within and
made a part of his Piazza, that it might remain forever the city's
supreme grace; and so, though there are public gardens and several
pleasant walks in the city, the great resort in summer and winter, by
day and by night, is the Piazza S. Marco."
In his delightful "Italy," Taine, after declaring Venice to be the
pearl of that country, not equalled by anything he has seen, says:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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