Venice : $b The queen of the AdriaticWaters, Clara Erskine Clement
History
Venice : $b The queen of the Adriatic
Waters, Clara Erskine Clement
Venice (Italy)
First in the procession are those who carry the crosses, banners, and
candelabra, all the portable belongings of the Church, made as fresh
as possible for the _sagra_, and a Madonna, usually seated in a
somewhat shaky chair. These bearers wear a sort of priestly vestment
over their work-day clothes; and these are carefully arranged in
groups of different colors,--first blue, then red, and lastly white.
It is most interesting to see the faces of these bronzed,
weather-beaten men, more accustomed to rowing than to walking. They
stagger beneath their burdens {86} from side to side of the narrow
calle; but they smile as they meet the gaze of neighbors and friends,
who watch from the windows and doorways the progress of their
carissima Madonna.
Behind the bearers comes the sacristan,--a person of importance,
clothed in scarlet, walking backward, and ringing a bell. He is the
marshal of the procession; and every boy is sober and properly
behaved when within sight of this important official. Following him
the music comes,--usually a clarinet, fife, trombone, and
drum,--playing the most cheerful themes, and followed by three little
acolytes, who swing their censers with such a will as to send up
perfect clouds of incense. The parish priest comes next, and is
usually an old and venerable man. He is dressed in rich robes and
laces, and attended by men bearing a canopy over his head. He
carries the Host reverently in his hands, and is followed by all the
lesser clergy and officials of the parish. Then the pious men and
women, the first in black clothes and bareheaded, and the last in
long black veils, make a large part of the procession; and here a
most curious economical custom is observed. Each of these
parishioners carries a lighted taper, and to avoid its dripping,
holds it sideways across the breast; and beside each one of these
walks some one with a paper bag in which to catch the drippings of
the wax. And so the procession winds in and out of every possible
place in all the parish. It is often forced to halt by some obstacle
in the narrow way; and those below are nodding and smiling to those
above, for every window and balcony is filled. The procession stops
at the last bridge in the parish, which has been covered with gayly
colored mats. The music ceases; the priest alone, under his canopy,
climbs to the highest point on the arch of the bridge, and raises the
Host in air. Every voice is hushed, every head uncovered, and every
knee bent. The only {87} sound is of the water gliding on and on to
the sea. All is enclosed by high walls; but if one throws the head
quite back, a strip of lovely placid blue symbolizes the peace which
these humble worshippers are hoping to gain at last.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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