Venice : $b The queen of the AdriaticWaters, Clara Erskine Clement
History
Venice : $b The queen of the Adriatic
Waters, Clara Erskine Clement
Venice (Italy)
But at evening, in the most populous quarters, and those least
invaded by strangers, the most unusual Good Friday custom is seen.
The people of the quarter conduct a unique service of song, quite
independent of the Church and at their own cost. They agree to sing
the Passion of Our Lord, for which they use a chant with twenty-four
verses. The necessary means are furnished by subscriptions of money,
oil, wine, or anything that may be used in the celebration.
At one end of the _calle_ a shrine is erected representing a temple,
each part of which--pillars, pediment, and so {89} on--is outlined by
small lamps; while in the centre of the shrine there is a gas-jet
with its paler light. A crowd gathers before the little temple
waiting for the music to begin, while every window within hearing
distance is open and filled with listeners, who meantime gossip with
the people in the street. Somewhere in the _calle_ there is sure to
be a Madonna and Infant Jesus, who have on this day been carefully
cleaned and trimmed with wreaths of flowers, long sprays of graceful
vines, and bits of ribbon.
When the leader of the singers begins the chant, all other sounds are
hushed. Even the children know that they must now be quiet. The
key-note being thus given, other voices join in; and each verse
requires about three minutes for its rendering, and between the
verses there is a pause of five or six minutes, when the chatter of
the men and women and the pranks of the children are resumed, until
again cut short by the voice of the leader. This is repeated until
the twenty-four verses of sombre chant are sung in a manner much
resembling ordinary psalm-singing elsewhere.
The music over, the evening ends, as do all Venetian celebrations,
with a supper at the nearest wine-shop. This singular observance of
a day so sadly solemn elsewhere makes a curious impression at first
on strangers who witness it, and is perhaps the most characteristic
of all the public customs that one can observe in Venice.
{90}
CHAPTER VI.
GRADENIGO, TIEPOLO, AND THE COUNCIL OF TEN.
A new era was inaugurated in Venice by the fall of Constantinople.
Prosperous and powerful as the Republic had previously been, it now
sprang, as if by magic, into a position of which her most ambitious
and far-seeing statesmen could not have dreamed.
A little more than a quarter of a century had elapsed since the visit
of Pope Alexander, at which time sixty-five thousand was the highest
estimate that could be made of her population; now, at the end of the
Fourth Crusade, her nominal sovereignty embraced millions of souls,
and the actual numbers within the borders of the Republic itself had
vastly increased. The new territory and the various rights and
privileges which she had acquired in the Lower Empire had largely
increased her commerce and the sources of her wealth, and she
hastened to make all these advantages permanent by a liberal and wise
system of colonization.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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