Views of nature: or Contemplations on the sublime phenomena of creation: with scientific illustrationsHumboldt, Alexander von
Science
Views of nature: or Contemplations on the sublime phenomena of creation: with scientific illustrations
Humboldt, Alexander von
Physical geography; Plant morphology; Science; South America -- Description and travel
At this point, near the mouth of the Apure, the stream leaves the granitic
chain, and flowing eastward, separates as far as the Atlantic, the
impenetrable forests of Guiana from the Savannahs, on whose far distant
horizon the vault of heaven seems to rest. Thus the Orinoco surrounds on
the south, west, and north, the high mountain chain of the Parime, which
occupies the vast space between the sources of the Jao and of the Caura.
No cliffs or rapids obstruct the course of the river from Carichana to its
mouth, excepting, indeed, the “Hell’s Mouth” (Boca del Inferno) near
Muitaco, a whirlpool occasioned by rocks, as at Atures and Maypures, which
does not, however, block up the whole breadth of the stream. In this
district, which is contiguous to the sea, the only dangers encountered by
the boatmen arise from the natural timber-floats, against which canoes are
often wrecked at night. These floats consist of forest trees which have
been uprooted and torn away from the banks by the rising of the waters.
They are covered, like meadows, with blooming water-plants, and remind us
of the floating gardens of the Mexican lakes.
After this brief glance at the course of the Orinoco and its general
features, I pass to the waterfalls of Maypures and Atures.
From the high mountain-group of Cunavami, between the sources of the
rivers Sipapo and Ventuari, a granite ridge projects to the far west
towards the mountain of Uniama. From this ridge descend four streams,
which mark, as it were, the limits of the cataracts of Maypures; two bound
Sipapo and Sanariapo, on the eastern shore of the Orinoco; and two the
Cameji and Toparo, on the western side. At the site of the missionary
village of Maypures the mountains form a wide bay opening towards the
south-west.
Here the stream rushes foaming down the eastern declivity of the mountain,
while far to the west traces remain of the ancient and now forsaken bank
of the river. An extensive Savannah stretches between the two chains of
hills, at an elevation of scarcely 30 feet above the upper water-level of
the river, and here the Jesuits have erected a small church formed of the
trunks of palms.
The geognostical aspect of this region, the insular form of the rocks of
Keri and Oco, the cavities worn in the former by the current, and which
are situated at exactly the same level as those in the opposite island of
Uivitari; all these indications tend to prove that the Orinoco once filled
the whole of this now dried-up bay. It is probable that the waters formed
a wide lake, as long as the northern dam withstood their passage. When
this barrier gave way, the Savannah now inhabited by the Guareke Indians
emerged as an island. The river may perhaps long after this have continued
to surround the rocks of Keri and Oco, which now picturesquely project,
like castellated fortresses, from its ancient bed. After the gradual
diminution of the waters, the river withdrew wholly to the eastern side of
the mountain chain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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