Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
Scarcely had they heard that I, a foreigner, had arrived, than they
frequently came to me, and brought quite common objects, such as can be
found any where in Iceland, and expected me to pay dearly for them. At
first I purchased from charity, or to be rid of their importunities, and
threw the things away again; but I was soon obliged to give this up, as I
should else have been besieged from morning to night. Their anxiety to
gain money without labour annoyed me less than the extortionate prices
with which they tried to impose on a stranger. For a beetle, such as
could be found under every stone, they asked 5 kr. (about 2d.); as much
for a caterpillar, of which thousands were lying on the beach; and for a
common bird's egg, 10 to 20 kr. (4d. to 8d.) Of course, when I declined
buying, they reduced their demand, sometimes to less than half the
original sum; but this was certainly not in consequence of their honesty.
The baker in whose house I lodged also experienced the selfishness of
these people. He had engaged a poor labourer to tar his house, who, when
he had half finished his task, heard of other employment. He did not
even take the trouble to ask the baker to excuse him for a few days; he
went away, and did not return to finish the interrupted work for a whole
week. This conduct was the more inexcusable as his children received
bread, and even butter, twice a week from the baker.
I was fortunate enough to experience similar treatment. Herr Knudson had
engaged a guide for me, with whom I was to take my departure in a few
days. But it happened that the magistrate wished also to take a trip,
and sent for my guide. The latter expected to be better paid by him, and
went; he did not come to me to discharge himself, but merely sent me word
on the eve of my departure, that he was ill, and could therefore not go
with me. I could enumerate many more such examples, which do not much
tend to give a high estimate of Icelandic morality.
I consoled myself with the hope of finding simplicity and honesty in the
more retired districts, and therefore anticipated a twofold pleasure from
my journey into the interior. I found many virtues, but unfortunately so
many faults, that I am no longer inclined to exalt the Icelandic peasants
as examples.
The best of their virtues is their honesty. I could leave my baggage
unguarded any where for hours, and never missed the least article, for
they did not even permit their children to touch any thing. In this
point they are so conscientious, that if a peasant comes from a distance,
and wishes to rest in a cottage, he never fails to knock at the door,
even if it is open. If no one calls "come in," he does not enter. One
might fearlessly sleep with open doors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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