Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
The so-called flying-fish afforded a pretty sight. The sea was as calm
as a mirror, the evening mild and moonlight; and so we remained on deck
till late, watching the gambols of these animals. As far as we could
see, the water was covered with them. We could recognise the younger
fishes by their higher springs; they seemed to be three to four feet
long, and rose five to six feet above the surface of the sea. Their
leaping looked like an attempt at flying, but their gills did not do them
good service in the trial, and they fell back immediately. The old fish
did not seem to have the same elasticity; they only described a small
arch like the dolphins, and only rose so far above the water that we
could see the middle part of their body.
These fish are not caught; they have little oil, and an unpleasant taste.
On the thirteenth day we again saw land. We had entered the Skagerrak,
and saw the peninsula of Jutland, with the town of Skaggen. The
peninsula looks very dreary from this side; it is flat and covered with
sand.
On the sixteenth day we entered the Cattegat. For some time past we had
always either been becalmed or had had contrary winds, and had been
tossed about in the Skagerrak, the Cattegat, and the Sound for nearly a
week. On some days we scarcely made fifteen to twenty leagues a day. On
such calm days I passed the time with fishing; but the fish were wise
enough not to bite my hook. I was daily anticipating a dinner of
mackerel, but caught only one.
The multitude of vessels sailing into the Cattegat afforded me more
amusement; I counted above seventy. The nearer we approached the
entrance of the Sound, the more imposing was the sight, and the more
closely were the vessels crowded together. Fortunately we were favoured
by a bright moonlight; in a dark or stormy night we should not with the
greatest precaution and skill have been able to avoid a collision.
The inhabitants of more southern regions have no idea of the
extraordinary clearness and brilliancy of a northern moonlight night; it
seems almost as if the moon had borrowed a portion of the sun's lustre.
I have seen splendid nights on the coast of Asia, on the Mediterranean;
but here, on the shores of Scandinavia, they were lighter and brighter.
I remained on deck all night; for it pleased me to watch the forests of
masts crowded together here, and endeavouring simultaneously to gain the
entrance to the Sound. I should now be able to form a tolerable idea of
a fleet, for this number of ships must surely resemble a merchant-fleet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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