Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
Bad weather is one of the greatest torments of a traveller, and is more
disagreeable when one passes through districts remarkable for beauty and
originality. Both grievances were united to-day; it rained, almost
incessantly; and yet the passage of the Swedish coast and of the little
fiord to the port of Gottenburg was of peculiar interest. The sea here
was more like a broad stream which is bounded by noble rocks, and
interspersed by small and large rocks and shoals, over which the waters
dashed finely. Near the harbour, some buildings lie partly on and partly
between the rocks; these contain the celebrated royal Swedish
iron-foundry, called the new foundry. Even numerous American ships were
lying here to load this metal. {46}
The steamer remains more than four hours in the port of Gottenburg, and
we had therefore time to go into the town, distant about two miles, and
whose suburbs extend as far as the port. On the landing-quay a captain
lives who has always a carriage and two horses ready to drive travellers
into the town. There are also one-horse vehicles, and even an omnibus.
The former were already engaged; the latter, we were told, drives so
slowly, that nearly the whole time is lost on the road; so I and two
travelling companions hired the captain's carriage. The rain poured in
torrents on our heads; but this did not disturb us much. My two
companions had business to transact, and curiosity attracted me. I did
not at that time know that I should have occasion to visit this pretty
little town again, and would not leave without seeing it.
The suburbs are built entirely of wood, and contain many pretty one-story
houses, surrounded, for the most part, by little gardens. The situation
of the suburbs is very peculiar. Rocks, or little fields and meadows,
often lie between the houses; the rocks even now and then cross the
streets, and had to be blasted to form a road. The view from one of the
hills over which the road to the town lies is truly beautiful.
The town has two large squares: on the smaller one stands the large
church; on the larger one the town-hall, the post-office, and many pretty
houses. In the town every thing is built of bricks. The river Ham flows
through the large square, and increases the traffic by the many ships and
barks running into it from the sea, and bringing provisions, but
principally fuel, to market. Several bridges cross it. A visit to the
well-stocked fish-market is also an interesting feature in a short visit
to this town.
I entered a Swedish house for the first time here. I remarked that the
floor was strewed over with the fine points of the fir-trees, which had
an agreeable odour, a more healthy one probably than any artificial
perfume. I found this custom prevalent all over Sweden and Norway, but
only in hotels and in the dwellings of the poorer classes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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