Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
As I had hired no carriage, I had a different vehicle at every station,
and these vehicles consisted of ordinary two-wheeled wooden carts. My
seat was a truss of hay covered with the horse-cloth. If the roads had
not been so extremely good, these carts would have shaken terribly; but
as it was, I must say that I rode more comfortably than in the carriols
of the Norwegians, although they were painted and vanished; for in them I
had to be squeezed in with my feet stretched out, and could not change my
position.
The stations are unequal,--sometimes long, sometimes short. The
post-horses are provided here, as in Norway, by wealthy peasants, called
Dschns-peasants. These have to collect a certain number of horses every
evening for forwarding the travellers the next morning. At every
post-house a book is kept, in which the traveller can see how many horses
the peasant has, how many have already been hired, and how many are left
in the stable. He must then inscribe his name, the hour of his
departure, and the number of horses he requires. By this arrangement
deception and extortion are prevented, as every thing is open, and the
prices fixed. {55}
Patience is also required here, though not so much as in Norway. I had
always to wait from fifteen to twenty minutes before the carriage was
brought and the horses and harness prepared, but never longer; and I must
admit that the Swedish post-masters hurried as much as possible, and
never demanded double fare, although they must have known that I was in
haste. The pace of the horse depends on the will of the coachman and the
powers of his steed; but in no other country did I see such consideration
paid to the strength of the horses. It is quite ridiculous to see what
small loads of corn, bricks, or wood, are allotted to two horses, and how
slowly and sleepily they draw their burdens.
The number of wooden gates, which divide the roads into as many parts as
there are common grounds on it, are a terrible nuisance to travellers.
The coachman has often to dismount six or eight times in an hour to open
and close these gates. I was told that these delectable gates even exist
on the great high road, only not quite in such profusion as on the
by-roads.
Wood must be as abundant here as in Norway, for every thing is enclosed;
even fields which seem so barren as not to be worth the labour or the
wood.
The villages through which I passed were generally pretty and cheerful,
and I found the cottages, which I entered while the horses were changed,
neatly and comfortably furnished.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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