Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
My guide wished to remain here, asserting that there was no place between
this and Keblevik where I could pass the night, and that it would be
impossible for our horses, exhausted as they were with yesterday's march,
to carry us to Keblevik that night. The true reason of this suggestion
was that he wished to prolong the journey for another day.
Luckily I had a good map with me, and by dint of consulting it could
calculate distances with tolerable accuracy; it was also my custom before
starting on a journey to make particular inquiries as to how I should
arrange the daily stages.
So I insisted upon proceeding at once; and soon we were wending our way
through fields of lava towards Stad, a small village six or seven miles
distant from Grundivik.
On the way I noticed a mountain of most singular appearance. In colour
it closely resembled iron; its sides were perfectly smooth and shining,
and streaks of the colour of yellow ochre traversed it here and there.
Stad is the residence of a priest. Contrary to the assertions of my
guide, I found this place far more cheerful and habitable than Grundivik.
Whilst our horses were resting, the priest paid me a visit, and conducted
me, not, as I anticipated, into his house, but into the church. Chairs
and stools were quickly brought there, and my host introduced his wife
and children to me, after which we partook of coffee, bread and cheese,
&c. On the rail surrounding the altar hung the clothes of the priest and
his family, differing little in texture and make from those of the
peasants.
The priest appeared to be a very intelligent, well-read man. I could
speak the Danish language pretty fluently, and was therefore able to
converse with him on various subjects. On hearing that I had already
been in Palestine, he put a number of questions to me, from which I could
plainly see that he was alike well acquainted with geography, history,
natural science, &c. He accompanied me several miles on my road, and we
chatted away the time very pleasantly.
The distance between Krisuvik and Keblevik is about forty-two miles. The
road lies through a most dreary landscape, among vast desert plains,
frequently twenty-five to thirty miles in circumference, entirely
divested of all traces of vegetation, and covered throughout their
extreme area by masses of lava--gloomy monuments of volcanic agency. And
yet here, at the very heart of the subterranean fire, I saw only a single
mountain, the summit of which had fallen in, and presented the appearance
of a crater. The rest were all completely closed, terminating sometimes
in a beautiful round top, and sometimes in sharp peaks; in other
instances they formed long narrow chains.
Who can tell whence these all-destroying masses of lava have poured
forth, or how many hundred years they have lain in these petrified
valleys?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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