Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
On my return I had still to visit a basin with a jet of water, in a fine
meadow near the church; a low wall of stone has been erected round this
spring to prevent the cattle from scalding themselves if they should
approach too near in the ardour of grazing. Some eighty paces off is to
be seen the wool-bath erected by Snorri Sturluson. It consists of a
stone basin three or four feet in depth, and eighteen or twenty in
diameter. The approach is by a few steps leading to a low stone bench,
which runs round the basin. The water is obtained from the neighbouring
spring, but is of so high a temperature that it is impossible to bathe
without previously cooling it. The bath stands in the open air, and no
traces are left of the building which once covered it. It is now used
for clothes and sheep's wool.
I had now seen all the interesting springs on this side of the valley.
Some columns of vapour, which may be observed from the opposite end of
the valley, proceed from thermal springs, that offer no remarkable
feature save their heat.
On our return the priest took me to the churchyard, which lay at some
distance from his dwelling, and showed me the principal graves. Though I
thought the sight very impressive, it was not calculated to invigorate
me, when I considered that I must pass the approaching night alone in the
church, amidst these resting-places of the departed.
The mound above each grave is very high, and the greater part of them are
surmounted by a kind of wooden coffin, which at first sight conveys the
impression that the dead person is above ground. I could not shake off a
feeling of discomfort; and such is the power of prejudice, that--I
acknowledge my weakness--I was even induced to beg that the priest would
remove one of the covers. Though I knew full well that the dead man was
slumbering deep in the earth, and not in this coffin, I felt a shudder
pass over me as the lid was removed, and I saw--as the priest had assured
me I should do--merely a tombstone with the usual inscription, which this
coffin-like covering is intended to protect against the rude storms of
the winter.
Close beside the entrance to the church is the mound beneath which rest
the bones of Snorri Sturluson, the celebrated poet; {39} over this grave
stands a small runic stone of the length of the mound itself. This stone
is said to have once been completely covered with runic characters; but
all trace of these has been swept away by the storms of five hundred
winters, against which the tomb had no protecting coffin. The stone,
too, is split throughout its entire length into two pieces. The mound
above the grave is often renewed, so that the beholder could often fancy
he saw a new-made grave. I picked all the buttercups I could find
growing on the grave, and preserved them carefully in a book. Perhaps I
may be able to give pleasure to several of my countrywomen by offering
them a floweret from the grave of the greatest of Icelandic poets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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