Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian NorthPfeiffer, Ida
History
Visit to Iceland and the Scandinavian North
Pfeiffer, Ida
Iceland -- Description and travel; Old Norse poetry -- History and criticism; Scandinavia -- Description and travel
The cavern of Surthellir lies on a slightly elevated extended plain,
where it would certainly not be sought for, as we are accustomed to see
natural phenomena of this description only in the bowels of rocks. It
is, therefore, with no little surprise that the traveller sees suddenly
opening before him a large round basin about fifteen fathoms in diameter,
and four in depth. It was with a feeling of awe that I looked downwards
on the countless blocks of rock piled one upon the other, extending on
one side to the edge of the hollow, across which the road led to the dark
ravines farther on.
We were compelled to scramble forward on our hands and knees, until we
reached a long broad passage, which led us at first imperceptibly
downwards, and then ran underneath the plain, which formed a rocky cavern
above our heads. I estimated the different heights of this roof at not
less than from eighteen to sixty feet; but it seldom reached a greater
elevation than the latter. Both roof and walls are in some places very
pointed and rough: a circumstance to be ascribed to the stalactites which
adhere to them, without, however, forming figures or long sharp points.
From this principal path several smaller ones lead far into the interior
of this stony region; but they do not communicate with each other, and
one is compelled to return from each side-path into the main road. Some
of these by-paths are short, narrow, and low; others, on the contrary,
are long, broad, and lofty.
In one of the most retired of these by-paths I was shewn a great number
of bones, which, I was told, were those of slaughtered sheep and other
animals. I could gather, from the account given by the priest of the
legend concerning them, that, in days of yore, this cave was the resort
of a mighty band of robbers. This must have been a long, long time ago,
as this is related as a legend or a fable.
For my part, I could not tell what robbers had to do in Iceland. Pirates
had often come to the island; but for these gentry this cavern was too
far from the sea. I cannot even imagine beasts of prey to have been
there; for the whole country round about is desert and uninhabited, so
that they could have found nothing to prey upon. In fact, I turned over
in my mind every probability, and can only say that it appeared to me a
most remarkable circumstance to find in this desert place, so far from
any living thing, a number of bones, which, moreover, looked as fresh as
if the poor animals to whom they once belonged had been eaten but a short
time ago. Unfortunately I could obtain no satisfactory information on
this point.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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