Visits and Sketches at Home and Abroad, Vol. 2 (of 3): With Tales and Miscellanies Now First CollectedJameson, Mrs. (Anna)
History
Visits and Sketches at Home and Abroad, Vol. 2 (of 3): With Tales and Miscellanies Now First Collected
Jameson, Mrs. (Anna)
Germany -- Description and travel
The whole city, which is very large, lies crowded and compact within its
walls; but the fortifications, once the wonder of all Germany, and their
three hundred and sixty-five towers, once the glory and safeguard of
the inhabitants, exist no longer. Four huge circular towers stand at the
principal gates,--four huge towers of almost dateless antiquity, and
blackened with age, but of such admirable construction, that the masonry
appears, from its entireness and smoothness, as if raised yesterday.
The old castle or fortress, which stands on a height commanding the
town and a glorious view, is a strange, dismantled, incongruous heap of
buildings. It happened, that in the summer of 1833, the king of Bavaria,
accompanied by the queen and the princess Matilda, had paid his good
city of Nuremberg a visit, and had been most royally entertained by the
inhabitants. The apartments in the old castle, long abandoned to the
rats and spiders, had been prepared for the royal guests, and, when I
saw it, three or four months afterwards, nothing could be more uncouth
and fantastical than the effect of these irregular rooms, with all
manner of angles, with their carved worm-eaten ceilings, their curious
latticed and painted windows, and most preposterous stoves, now all
tricked out with fresh paint here and there, and hung with gay glazed
papers of the most modern fashion, and the most gaudy patterns. Even the
chapel, with its four old pillars, which, according to the legend, had
been brought by Old Nick himself from Rome, and the effigy of the monk
who had cheated his infernal adversary, by saying the Litanies faster
than had ever been known before or since, had, in honour of the king's
visit, received a new coat of paint. There are some very curious old
pictures in the castle, (which luckily were not repainted for the same
grand occasion,) among them an original portrait of Albert Durer. In
the courtyard of the fortress stands an extraordinary relic--the old
lime-tree planted by the Empress Cunegunde, wife of the Emperor Henry
III.; every thing is done to preserve it from decay, and it still bears
its leafy honours, after beholding the revolution of seven centuries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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