Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Geology -- South America; Volcanoes
The grand valleys, by which the Blue Mountains and the other sandstone
platforms of this part of Australia are penetrated, and which long
offered an insuperable obstacle to the attempts of the most
enterprising colonist to reach the interior country, form the most
striking feature in the geology of New South Wales. They are of grand
dimensions, and are bordered by continuous links of lofty cliffs. It is
not easy to conceive a more magnificent spectacle, than is presented to
a person walking on the summit- plains, when without any notice he
arrives at the brink of one of these cliffs, which are so
perpendicular, that he can strike with a stone (as I have tried) the
trees growing, at the depth of between one thousand and one thousand
five hundred feet below him; on both hands he sees headland beyond
headland of the receding line of cliff, and on the opposite side of the
valley, often at the distance of several miles, he beholds another line
rising up to the same height with that on which he stands, and formed
of the same horizontal strata of pale sandstone. The bottoms of these
valleys are moderately level, and the fall of the rivers flowing in
them, according to Sir T. Mitchell, is gentle. The main valleys often
send into the platform great baylike arms, which expand at their upper
ends; and on the other hand, the platform often sends promontories into
the valley, and even leaves in them great, almost insulated, masses. So
continuous are the bounding lines of cliff, that to descend into some
of these valleys, it is necessary to go round twenty miles; and into
others, the surveyors have only lately penetrated, and the colonists
have not yet been able to drive in their cattle. But the most
remarkable point of structure in these valleys, is, that although
several miles wide in their upper parts, they generally contract
towards their mouths to such a degree as to become impassable. The
Surveyor-General, Sir T. Mitchell, in vain endeavoured, first on foot
and then by crawling between the great fallen fragments of sandstone,
to ascend through the gorge by which the river Grose joins the Nepean
(“Travels in Australia” volume 1 page 154.—I must express my obligation
to Sir T. Mitchell for several interesting personal communications on
the subject of these great valleys of New South Wales.); yet the valley
of the Grose in its upper part, as I saw, forms a magnificent basin
some miles in width, and is on all sides surrounded by cliffs, the
summits of which are believed to be nowhere less than 3,000 feet above
the level of the sea. When cattle are driven into the valley of the
Wolgan by a path (which I descended) partly cut by the colonists, they
cannot escape; for this valley is in every other part surrounded by
perpendicular cliffs, and eight miles lower down, it contracts, from an
average width of half a mile, to a mere chasm impassable to man or
beast. Sir T. Mitchell states, that the great valley of the Cox river
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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