Beagle Expedition (1831-1836); Geology -- South America; Volcanoes
A calcareous deposit on the summit of Bald Head, containing branched
bodies, supposed by some authors to have been corals, has been
celebrated by the descriptions of many distinguished voyagers. (I
visited this hill, in company with Captain Fitzroy, and we came to a
similar conclusion regarding these branching bodies.) It folds round
and conceals irregular hummocks of granite, at the height of 600 feet
above the level of the sea. It varies much in thickness; where
stratified, the beds are often inclined at high angles, even as much as
at thirty degrees, and they dip in all directions. These beds are
sometimes crossed by oblique and even-sided laminae. The deposit
consists either of a fine, white calcareous powder, in which not a
trace of structure can be discovered, or of exceedingly minute, rounded
grains, of brown, yellowish, and purplish colours; both varieties being
generally, but not always, mixed with small particles of quartz, and
being cemented into a more or less perfect stone. The rounded
calcareous grains, when heated in a slight degree, instantly lose their
colours; in this and in every other respect, closely resembling those
minute, equal- sized particles of shells and corals, which at St.
Helena have been drifted up the side of the mountains, and have thus
been winnowed of all coarser fragments. I cannot doubt that the
coloured calcareous particles here have had a similar origin. The
impalpable powder has probably been derived from the decay of the
rounded particles; this certainly is possible, for on the coast of
Peru, I have traced LARGE UNBROKEN shells gradually falling into a
substance as fine as powdered chalk. Both of the above-mentioned
varieties of calcareous sandstone frequently alternate with, and blend
into, thin layers of a hard substalagmitic rock, which, even when the
stone on each side contains particles of quartz, is entirely free from
them (I adopt this term from Lieutenant Nelson’s excellent paper on the
Bermuda Islands “Geolog. Trans.” volume 5 page 106, for the hard,
compact, cream- or brown- coloured stone, without any crystalline
structure, which so often accompanies superficial calcareous
accumulations. I have observed such superficial beds, coated with
substalagmitic rock, at the Cape of Good Hope, in several parts of
Chile, and over wide spaces in La Plata and Patagonia. Some of these
beds have been formed from decayed shells, but the origin of the
greater number is sufficiently obscure. The causes which determine
water to dissolve lime, and then soon to redeposit it, are not, I
think, known. The surface of the substalagmitic layers appears always
to be corroded by the rain-water. As all the above-mentioned countries
have a long dry season, compared with the rainy one, I should have
thought that the presence of the substalagmitic was connected with the
climate, had not Lieutenant Nelson found this substance forming under
sea-water. Disintegrated shell seems to be extremely soluble; of which
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