Walks in RomeHare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
History
Walks in Rome
Hare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
Rome (Italy) -- Description and travel
Near the Church of Sta. Francesca the Via Sacra passes under the _Arch
of Titus_, which, even in its restored condition, is the most beautiful
monument of the kind remaining in Rome. Its Christian interest is
unrivalled, from its having been erected by the senate to commemorate
the taking of Jerusalem, and from its bas-reliefs of the seven-branched
candlestick and other treasures of the Jewish Temple. In mediæval times
it was called the Arch of the Seven Candlesticks (septem lucernarum)
from the bas-relief of the candlestick, concerning which Gregorovius
remarks, that the fantastic figures carved upon it prove that it was
_not_ an exact likeness of that which came from Jerusalem. The
bas-reliefs are now greatly mutilated, but they are shown in their
perfect state in a drawing of Giuliano di Sangallo. On the frieze is the
sacred river Jordan, as an aged man, borne on a bier. The arch, which
was in a very ruinous condition, had been engrafted in the middle ages
into a fortress tower called Turris Cartularia, and so it remained till
the present century. This tower originally formed the entrance to the
vast fortress of the powerful Frangipani family, which included the
Coliseum and a great part of the Palatine and Cœlian hills; and here,
above the gate, Pope Urban II. dwelt in 1093, under the protection of
Giovanni Frangipani. The arch was repaired by Pius VII., who replaced in
travertine the lost marble portions at the top and sides.
"Standing beneath the arch of Titus, and amid so much ancient dust,
it is difficult to forbear the commonplaces of enthusiasm, on which
hundreds of tourists have already insisted. Over the half-worn
pavement, and beneath this arch, the Roman armies had trodden in
their outward march, to fight battles, a world's width away.
Returning victorious, with royal captives, and inestimable spoil, a
Roman triumph, that most gorgeous pageant of earthly pride, has
streamed and flaunted in hundred-fold succession over these same
flagstones, and through this yet stalwart archway. It is politic,
however, to make few allusions to such a past; nor is it wise to
suggest how Cicero's feet may have stepped on yonder stone, or how
Horace was wont to stroll near by, making his footsteps chime with
the measure of the ode that was ringing in his mind. The very
ghosts of that massive and stately epoch have so much density that
the people of to-day seem the thinner of the two, and stand more
ghost-like by the arches and columns, letting the rich sculpture be
discerned through their ill-compacted substance."--_Hawthorne,
Transformation._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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