Walks in RomeHare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
History
Walks in Rome
Hare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
Rome (Italy) -- Description and travel
"No one can form any idea of full moonlight in Rome who has not
seen it. Every individual object is swallowed in the huge masses of
light and shadow, and only the marked and principal outlines remain
visible. Three days ago (Feb. 2, 1787) we made good use of a light
and most beautiful night. The Coliseum presents a vision of beauty.
It is closed at night; a hermit lives inside in a little church,
and beggars roost amid the ruined vaults. They had lighted a fire
on the bare ground, and a gentle breeze drove the smoke across the
arena. The lower portion of the ruin was lost, while the enormous
walls above stood forth into the darkness. We stood at the gates
and gazed upon this phenomenon. The moon shone high and bright.
Gradually the smoke moved through the chinks and apertures in the
walls, and the moon illuminated it like a mist. It was an exquisite
moment!"--_Goethe._
It is believed that the building of the Coliseum remained entire until
the eighth century, and that its ruin dates from the invasion of Robert
Guiscard, who destroyed it to prevent its being used as a stronghold by
the Romans. During the middle ages it served as a fortress, and became
the castle of the great family of Frangipani, who here gave refuge to
Pope Innocent II. (Papareschi) and his family, against the anti-pope
Anacletus II., and afterwards in the same way protected Innocent III.
(Conti) and his brothers against the anti-pope Paschal II. Constantly at
war with the Frangipani were the Annibaldi, who possessed a neighbouring
fortress, and obtained from Gregory IX. a grant of half the Coliseum,
which was rescinded by Innocent IV. During the absence of the popes at
Avignon the Annibaldi got possession of the whole of the Coliseum, but
it was taken away again in 1312, and placed in the hands of the
municipality, after which it was used for bull-fights, in which (as
described by Monaldeschi) nobles of high rank took part and lost their
lives. In 1381 the senate made over part of the ruins to the Canons of
the Lateran, to be used as a hospital, and their occupation is still
commemorated by the arms of the Chapter (our Saviour's head between two
candelabra) sculptured in various parts of the building. From the
fourteenth century it began to be looked upon as a stone-quarry, and the
Palazzos Farnese, Barberini, S. Marco, and the Cancellaria, were built
with materials plundered from its walls. It is said that the first of
these destroyers, Cardinal Farnese, only extorted permission from his
reluctant uncle, Paul III., to quarry as much stone as he could remove
in twelve hours, and that he availed himself of this permission to let
loose four thousand workmen upon the building. Sixtus V. endeavoured to
utilize it by turning the arcades into shops, and establishing a woollen
manufactory, and Clement XI. (1700--1721) by a manufactory of saltpetre,
but both happily failed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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