Walks in RomeHare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
History
Walks in Rome
Hare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
Rome (Italy) -- Description and travel
The Aventine continued to be inhabited, and even populous, until the
sixth century, from which period its prosperity began to decline. In the
eleventh century it was occupied by the camp of Henry IV. of Germany,
when he came in war against Gregory VII. In the thirteenth century
Honorius III. made a final effort to re-establish its popularity; but
with each succeeding generation it has become--partly owing to the
ravages of malaria--more and more deserted, till now its sole
inhabitants are monks, and the few ague-stricken contadini who look
after the monastic vineyards. In wandering along its desolate lanes,
hemmed in by hedges of elder, or by walls covered with parasitical
plants, it is difficult to realize the time when it was so thickly
populated; and except in the quantities of coloured marbles with which
its fields and vineyards are strewn, there is nothing to remind one of
the 16 ædiculæ, 64 baths, 25 granaries, 88 fountains, 130 of the larger
houses called _domus_, and 2487 of the poorer houses called _insulæ_,
which occupied this site.
The present interest of the hill is almost wholly ecclesiastical, and
centres around the story of St. Dominic, and the legends of the saints
and martyrs connected with its different churches.
* * * * *
The best approach to the Aventine is behind the Church of Sta. Maria in
Cosmedin, where the _Via Sta. Sabina_, once the Clivus Publicius
(available for carriages), turns up the hill.
A lane on the left leads to the Jewish burial-ground, used as a place of
sepulture for the Ghetto for many centuries. A curious instance of the
cupidity attributed to the Jewish race may be seen in the fact, that
they have, for a remuneration of four baiocchi, habitually given leave
to their neighbours to discharge the contents of a rubbish cart into
their cemetery, a permission of which the Romans have so abundantly
availed themselves, that the level of the soil has been raised by many
yards, and whole sets of older monuments have been completely swallowed
up, and new ones erected over their heads.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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