Walks in RomeHare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
History
Walks in Rome
Hare, Augustus J. C. (Augustus John Cuthbert)
Rome (Italy) -- Description and travel
"After the burning of Rome, Nero threw upon the Christians the
accusation of having fired the city. This was the origin of the
first persecution, in which many perished by terrible and hitherto
unheard-of deaths. The Christian converts besought Peter not to
expose his life. As he fled along the Appian Way, about two miles
from the gates, he was met by a vision of our Saviour travelling
towards the city. Struck with amazement, he exclaimed, 'Lord,
whither goest thou?' to which the Saviour, looking upon him with a
mild sadness, replied, 'I go to Rome to be crucified a second
time,' and vanished. Peter, taking this as a sign that he was to
submit himself to the sufferings prepared for him, immediately
turned back to the city.[201] Michael Angelo's famous statue, now
in the Church of Sta. Maria sopra Minerva, is supposed to represent
Christ as he appeared to St. Peter on this occasion. A cast or copy
of it is in the little church of 'Domine, quo vadis?'
"It is surprising that this most beautiful, picturesque, and, to my
fancy, sublime legend, has been so seldom treated; and never, as it
seems to me, in a manner worthy of its capabilities and high
significance. It is seldom that a story can be told by two figures,
and these two figures placed in such grand and dramatic
contrast;--Christ in His serene majesty, and radiant with all the
joy of beatitude, yet with an expression of gentle reproach; the
Apostle at his feet arrested in his flight, amazed, and yet filled
with a trembling joy; and for the background the wide Campagna, or
towering walls of imperial Rome."--_Mrs. Jameson._[202]
Beyond the church is a second "Bivium," or cross-ways, where a lane on
the left leads up the Valle Caffarelle. Here, feeling an uncertainty
_which_ was the crossing where Our Saviour appeared to St. Peter, the
English Cardinal Pole erected a second tiny chapel of "Domine Quo
Vadis," which remains to this day.
On the left, is the _Columbarium of the Freedmen of Augustus and Livia_,
divided into three chambers, but despoiled of its adornments. Other
Columbaria near this are assigned to the Volusii, and the Cæcilii.
Over the wall on the left of the Via Appia now hangs in profusion the
rare yellow-berried ivy. Many curious plants are to be found on these
old Roman walls. Their commonest parasite, the Pellitory--"_herba
parietina_," calls to mind the nickname given to the Emperor Trajan in
derision of his passion for inscribing his name upon the walls of Roman
buildings which he had merely restored, as if he were their
founder;[203] a passion in which the popes have since largely
participated.
We now reach (on the right) the entrance of the _Catacombs of St.
Calixtus_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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