"On the staircase of the Palazzo Altieri, is an ancient colossal marble _finger_, of such extraordinary size, that it is really worth a visit."--_Eaton's Rome._ This palace was the residence of the late noble-hearted vicar-general, Cardinal Altieri, who died a martyr to his devotion to his flock (as Bishop of Albano) during the terrible visitation of cholera at Albano in 1867. The _Piazza del Gesù_ is considered to be the most draughty place in Rome. The legend runs that the devil and the wind were one day taking a walk together. When they came to this square, the devil, who seemed to be very devout, said to the wind, "Just wait a minute, mio caro, while I go into this church." So the wind promised, and the devil went into the Gesù, and has never come out again--and the wind is blowing about in the Piazza del Gesù to this day. CHAPTER III. THE CAPITOLINE. The Story of the Hill--Piazza del Campidoglio--Palace of the Senator--View from the Capitol Tower--The Tabularium--The Museo Capitolino--Gallery of Statues--Palace of the Conservators--Gallery of Pictures--Palazzo Caffarelli--Tarpeian Rock--Convent and Church of Ara-Cœli--Mamertine Prisons. The Capitoline was the hill of the kings and the republic, as the Palatine was of the empire. Entirely composed of tufa, its sides, now concealed by buildings or by the accumulated rubbish of ages, were abrupt and precipitous, as are still the sides of the neighbouring citadels of Corneto and Cervetri. It was united to the Quirinal by an isthmus of land cut away by Trajan, but in every other direction was isolated by its perpendicular cliffs:-- "Arduus in valles et fora clivus erat." _Ovid, Fast._ i. 264. Up to the time of the Tarquins, it bore the name of Mons Saturnus,[19] from the mythical king Saturn, who is reported to have come to Italy in the reign of Janus, and to have made a settlement here. His name was derived from sowing, and he was looked upon as the introducer of civilization and social order, both of which are inseparably connected with agriculture. His reign here was thus considered to be the golden age of Italy. His wife was Ops, the representative of plenty.[20] "C'est la tradition d'un âge de paix représenté par le règne paisible de Saturne; avant qu'il y eut une _Roma_, ville de la force, il y eut une _Saturnia_, ville de la paix."--_Ampère, Hist. Rom._ i. 86. Virgil represents Evander, the mythical king of the Palatine, as exhibiting Saturnia, already in ruins, to Æneas. "Hæc duo præterea disjectis oppida muris, Reliquias veterumque vides monumenta virorum. Hanc Janus pater, hanc Saturnus condidit arcem: Janiculum huic, illi fuerat Saturnia nomen." _Æn._ viii. 356.