Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 1 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 1 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
This was once the seat of the most powerful seigniors of Cape Corso,
and above Erba Lunga stands the old castle of the Signori dei Gentili.
The Gentili, with the Seigniors da Mare, were masters of the Cape. The
neighbouring island of Capraja also belonged to the latter family.
Oppressively treated by its violent and unscrupulous owners, the
inhabitants rebelled in 1507, and placed themselves under the Bank
of Genoa. Cape Corso was always, from its position, considered as
inclining to Genoa, and its people were held to be unwarlike. Even at
the present day the men of the Corsican highlands look down on the
gentle and industrious people of the peninsula with contempt. The
historian Filippini says of the Cape Corsicans: "The inhabitants of
Cape Corso clothe themselves well, and are, on account of their trade
and their vicinity to the Continent, much more domestic than the other
Corsicans. Great justice, truth, and honour, prevail among them. All
their industry is in wine, which they export to the Continent." Even in
Filippini's time, therefore, the wine of Cape Corso was in reputation.
It is mostly white; the vintage of Luri and Rogliano is said to be the
best; this wine is among the finest that Southern Europe produces, and
resembles the Spanish, the Syracusan, and the Cyprian. But Cape Corso
is also rich in oranges and lemons.
If you leave the sea and go higher up the hills, you lose all the
beauty of this interesting little wine-country, for it nestles low
in the valleys. The whole of Cape Corso is a system of such valleys
on both its coasts; but the dividing ranges are rugged and destitute
of shade; their low wood gives no shelter from the sun. Limestone,
serpentine, talc, and porphyry, show themselves. After a toilsome
journey, I at length arrived late in the evening in the valley of
Sisco. A paesane had promised me hospitality there, and I descended
into the valley rejoicing in the prospect. But which was the commune of
Sisco? All around at the foot of the hills, and higher up, stood little
black villages, the whole of them comprehended under the name Sisco.
Such is the Corsican custom, to give all the hamlets of a valley the
name of the pieve, although each has its own particular appellation.
I directed my course to the nearest village, whither an old cloister
among pines attracted me, and seemed to say: Pilgrim, come, have
a draught of good wine. But I was deceived, and I had to continue
climbing for an hour, before I discovered my host of Sisco. The little
village lay picturesquely among wild black rocks, a furious stream
foaming through its midst, and Monte Stello towering above it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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