Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 1 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 1 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
The sun was westering as I ascended these hills, and the hours of
that afternoon were memorably beautiful. Again I passed a forsaken
cloister--this time, of the Franciscans. It lay quite buried among
vines, and foliage of every kind, dense, yet not dense enough to
conceal the abounding fruit. As I passed into the court, and was
entering the church of the convent, my eye lighted on a melancholy
picture of decay, which Nature, with her luxuriance of vegetation,
seemed laughingly to veil. The graves were standing open, as if those
once buried there had rent the overlying stones, that they might fly to
heaven; skulls lay among the long green grass and trailing plants, and
the cross--the symbol of all sorrow--had sunk amid a sea of flowers.
CHAPTER VI.
HOSPITALITY AND FAMILY LIFE IN ORETO--THE CORSICAN ANTIGONE.
"To Jove belong the stranger and the hungry,
And though the gift be small, it cheers the
heart."--_Odyssey._
An up-hill walk of two hours between fruit-gardens, the walls of which
the beautiful wreaths of the clematis garlanded all the way along, and
then through groves of chestnuts, brought me to Oreto.
The name is derived from the Greek oros, which means _mountain_;
the place lies high and picturesque, on the summit of a green hill.
A huge block of granite rears its gray head from the very centre of
the village, a pedestal for the colossal statue of a Hercules. Before
reaching the paese, I had to climb a laborious and narrow path, which
at many parts formed the channel of a brook.
At length gaining the summit, I found myself in the piazza, or public
square of the village, the largest I have seen in any paese. It is the
plateau of the mountain, overhung by other mountains, and encircled
by houses, which look like peace itself. The village priest was
walking about with his beadle, and the _paesani_ stood leaning in the
Sabbath-stillness on their garden walls. I stepped up to a group and
asked if there was a locanda in the place; "No," said one, "we have no
locanda, but I offer you my house--you shall have what we can give." I
gladly accepted the offer, and followed my host. Marcantonio, before
I entered his house, wished that I should take a look of the village
fountain, the pride of Oreto, and taste the water, the best in the
whole land of Casinca. Despite my weariness, I followed the Corsican.
The fountain was delicious, and the little structure could even make
pretensions to architectural elegance. The ice-cold water streamed
copiously through five pipes from a stone temple.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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