Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 1 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 1 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
A band of sbirri met us, Corsican gendarmes, dusky-visaged fellows
with black beards, in blue frock-coats, with white shoulder-knots, and
carrying double-barrelled muskets. We made complaint of our unfortunate
case to them. One of them offered to conduct us to an old soldier who
kept a tavern; there, he thought, we should obtain shelter. He led
us to an old, dilapidated house opposite the fort. We kept knocking
till the soldier-landlord awoke, and showed himself at the window.
At the same moment some one ran past--our sbirro after him without
saying a word, and both had vanished in the darkness of the night.
What was it?--what did this hot pursuit mean? After some time the
sbirro returned; he had imagined the runner was the murderer. "But
he," said the gendarme, "is already in the hills, or some fisherman has
set him over to Elba or Capraja. A short while ago we shot Arrighi in
the mountains, Massoni too, and Serafino. That was a tough fight with
Arrighi: he killed five of our people."
The old soldier came to the door, and led us into a large, very dirty
apartment. We gladly seated ourselves round the table, and made a
hearty supper on excellent Corsican wine, which has somewhat of the
fire of the Spanish, good wheaten bread, and fresh ewe-milk cheese.
A steaming oil-lamp illuminated this Homeric repast of forlorn
travellers; and there was no lack of good humour to it. Many a health
was drained to the heroes of Corsica, and our soldier-host brought
bottle after bottle from the corner. There were four nations of us
together, Corsican, Frenchman, German, and Lombard. I once mentioned
the name of Louis Bonaparte, and put a question--the company was struck
dumb, and the faces of the lively Frenchmen lengthened perceptibly.
Gradually the day dawned outside. We left the casa of the old Corsican,
and, wandering to the shore, feasted our eyes upon the sea, glittering
in the mild radiance of the early morning. The sun was rising fast, and
lit up the three islands visible from Bastia--Capraja, Elba, and the
small Monte Christo. A fourth island in the same direction is Pianosa,
the ancient Planasia, on which Agrippa Posthumus, the grandson of
Augustus, was strangled by order of Tiberius; as its name indicates,
it is flat, and therefore cannot be distinguished from our position.
The constant view of these three blue islands, along the edge of the
horizon, makes the walks around Bastia doubly beautiful.
I seated myself on the wall of the old fort and looked out upon the
sea, and on the little haven of the town, in which hardly half a dozen
vessels were lying. The picturesque brown rocks of the shore, the green
heights with their dense olive-groves, little chapels on the strand,
isolated gray towers of the Genoese, the sea, in all the pomp of
southern colouring, the feeling of being lost in a distant island, all
this made, that morning, an indelible impression on my soul.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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