Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
The street of the King of Rome leads to the Cathedral of Ajaccio.
This church is a heavy building, with a plain facade; above its portal
are some defaced armorial bearings. They are, doubtless, those of the
extinct Republic of Genoa. The interior of the cathedral has a motley
and rustic appearance. Heavy pillars divide it into three naves (_drei
Schiffe_); the dome is small, like the gallery.
Near the choir, to the right, a little chapel, hung with black, has been
put up. Two coffins, covered with black velvet, stand therein, before
an altar, coarsely decorated in the style we find in village churches.
Clumsy wooden candlesticks have been placed at the head and foot of each
coffin; and above each hangs a perpetual, but extinguished lamp. On the
coffin to the left lies a cardinal's hat and an amaranth-wreath; on the
coffin to the right an imperial crown and an amaranth-wreath.
They are the coffins of Cardinal Fesch and Madame Letitia. They were
brought hither from their Italian tombs in the year 1851. Letitia died
in her Roman palace, in the Place di Venezia, on the 2d of February
1836, and her coffin had since stood in a church of the little town of
Corneto, near Rome.
No marble, no sculpture, nothing of the pomp of death, adorns the spot
where a woman lies who gave birth to an emperor, three kings, and three
princesses.
I was astonished at the unconscious irony, the deep tragic meaning that
lay, as it seemed to me, in the almost rustic simplicity of Letitia's
tomb. It was like a princely tomb in the scenes of a theatre. Her
coffin rests on a high wooden platform; the clumsy candlesticks are of
wood, the gold is tinsel. The canopy of the chapel would fain look like
velvet, but it is of common taffeta, and the long silver fringes are
only silver paper. The golden imperial diadem on the coffin is of gilded
wood. The amaranthine wreath of Letitia alone is genuine.
I was told that this chapel was merely temporary, and that a new
cathedral was to be built, with a beautiful tomb for Letitia. Improbable
enough; the Corsicans are very poor, and for my part, I should be sorry
to see it. The worthy citizens of Ajaccio do not know how wise they have
been. A profound philosophy speaks from this chapel—what sort of crowns
were those that Letitia of Ajaccio and her children wore? For one short
evening they were princes, then they hurriedly threw away sceptre and
purple, and vanished. History itself, therefore, has laid the tinselled
crown on the coffin of the daughter of the citizen Ramolino. Let it
lie—it is not the less beautiful that it is counterfeit, like the lofty
fortunes of the bastard kings that this woman bore.
Never, so long as the world has stood, has a mother's heart beat higher
than the heart of the woman in this coffin. She saw her children, one
after another, stand at the loftiest zenith of human glory; and, one
after another, saw the same children fall. She has paid Destiny its
debt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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