Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2Gregorovius, Ferdinand
History
Wanderings in Corsica: Its History and Its Heroes. Vol. 2 of 2
Gregorovius, Ferdinand
Corsica (France) -- Description and travel; Corsica (France) -- History
The mountain-ridge of San Giorgio divides the valley of Prunelli
from the broad valley of the Taravo. After passing the crest of the
mountain—the Bocca, as it is called—the traveller's eye falls upon two
beautiful mountain-valleys thickly studded with hamlets and villages—the
valleys of Istria and Ornano. The river Taravo flows through them
in a very rocky channel. My memory in vain seeks for some well-known
region of Italy, to illustrate to the reader the character of these
Corsican valleys. Many parts of the Apennines are somewhat similar.
But these Corsican mountains and valleys, with their chestnut-groves,
their dark-brown rock-walls, their foaming streams, their black and
scattered villages, appeared to me far more sublime, far wilder and more
picturesque than any Italian scenery; and, when suddenly the distant
shining sea broke upon the view, the scene was not to be compared with
the landscape of any other country in the world.
In these mountains dwelt the old noble families of Istria and Ornano,
the head of whom local tradition declares to have been Hugo Colonna;
the same whom I have mentioned in my history of the island. Many a tower
and ruined castle still attest, but in uncertain accents, the glory of
their rule. The chief cantons of this district are those of Santa Maria
and Petreto.
In Santa Maria d'Ornano was the seat of the Ornanos. Originally the
pieve went by the name of Ornano, but it is now called Santa Maria.
The country around is beautiful, with green smiling hills, broad rich
pastures, and thick olive-groves. This was the native land of the fair
Vannina; and here still stands the tall, brown, castellated house where
she lived, picturesquely situated on a height commanding the valley. Not
far from this house are still to be seen the ruins of a castle, built
by Sampiero, with a chapel near it, in which he heard mass. It is said,
however, that he never went to the chapel, but contented himself with
sitting at a window of the castle when mass was being read. It was built
in the year 1554.
CHAPTER II.
FROM ORNANO TO SARTENE.
The Taravo forms the boundary between the province of Ajaccio and that
of Sartene, the most southern of the arrondissements of Corsica. The
traveller, on entering it, comes at first to the beautiful canton of
Petreto and Bicchisano, which extends along the Taravo to the Gulf
of Valinco. The view of this district, and of the bay far below, is
regarded by the Corsicans themselves as one of the most magnificent
in their romantic island. In general, the country on the other side of
these mountains is of a grander and more sublime character, and bears
upon it the colossal stamp of primeval nature. In many parts of this
canton the traveller meets with ruins of the castles of the lordly house
of Istria, but in a sad state of decay, and seldom distinguishable at
the first view from the black granite of the surrounding rocks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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